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Discuss the Battery Relocation thread at the 4th Gen forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
As you can see, 88-91 Honda crx/civic's have a very bad factory battery location. The positive terminal is near the intake tube which could easily cause ...

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02-25-2004, 05:25 AM   #1
cynosurecivic

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As you can see, 88-91 Honda crx/civic's have a very bad factory battery location. The positive terminal is near the intake tube which could easily cause a electrical fire and makes running charge pipes for custom turbo setups a pain. This section we will be doing a LOW-BUDGET Battery relocation.

ref: homemadeturbo.com
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First off you will need to find a battery box you like. Their are many differnt styles of battery boxes, some plastic some metal. This is a cheap one that can be picked up and many local automotive stores.

You will need to find a decent location to install you box. Find a level spot at the rear of your car. We like using the right rear of the car. It is a flat surface and easy to run the wires.



Our battery box was sized for a Group 24 battery. Which is a very common battery size. It is also larger than the stock sized battery and puts out more cold cranking amps. You can use the stock battery, you just need to wedge something in the box so it doesnt move around.

Wire, this is very important. We recommend getting nothing smaller than 4 gauge wire. We have used 1 O/T wire. 17 feet total. A good place to buy this is at a local welding store. The Ends have been crimped with battery terminals and heatshrinked .



Removing the old battery is one of the first steps. Here is a few of the parts that were left over from the install.

It is said that putting the battery in the rear makes a better weight distribution.



After the box is mounted you will begin to run the wire. I tucked it in the rear interior panels. Then popped the right carpet trim peice off and feed the wire all the way to the firewall.

Something nice about the crx, their are 3 plastic tabs shown in this pic, you can easily set the wire in the tabs, which holds it nicely in place.



After you run the wire through the firewall you will need to cut it and install some type of distribution block. This block has 4 outputs of 8 gauge wires. 1 goes directly to the fusebox, and the 2 others where spliced together going to the starter.

You can get these blocks at Stereo Shops.



We also removed all the stock ground wires and replaced them with 4 gauge wire.

(shitty length) we made it extra long just incase if the B-series tranny had a different spot for the ground point.



Mike G is famous for making these units for our cars... They look very sexy.

(Gagnon Motor Mounts)



In the rear we used the spare tire mount hole for the ground point. Be sure to clean off painted surfaces, bring it down to bare metal for a good connection.



We noticed after we put the battery in the box. The box kinda moved around alot, and did not feel very secure since it was sitting on a slight edge. Mike G found a metal L bracket that used to support under the front edge. This helped out alot.



The final install.. It came out fairly decent. We highly recommend installing a protection device (Fuse/Breaker) between the battery and the firewall. Since this setup was low-buget we did not add one.






Parts List:

Battery Box:
$15.00
17Ft 1 0/T Wire:
$22.00
2 Battery Terminals:
$3.00
Distribution Block:
$10.00
Misc Connectors:
$3.00
Group 24 Battery:
$39.00
Ground Wires:
Free (est. $10 - $15)

Total:
$92.00
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02-25-2004, 07:16 AM   #2
imported_comutek

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nice write up. good find!
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02-25-2004, 05:06 PM   #3
Toyz-B-Us

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Nice, but I must state that you should mount a fuseholder or circuit breaker near the distribution up front and near the battery.
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