7th Gen Engine DIYS

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Post here if you will be looking for 7th Gen Engine Diys Please have them in asap.. 2 hours guys.

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HONDATA HEATSHIELD GASKET INSTALL


Available for B16A/B18C5, D16Z, B18C, B18A/B18B, H22A, K-Series and S2000 engines. Hondata has developed a special high temperature insulating gasket which replaces the stock intake gasket. This and bypassing several heat sources significantly reduces the transfer of heat from the head to the intake and incoming air giving you up to 5% more power.
As you open the throttle, the intake temperature drops slowly as it cools the intake. When you descend a hill with the throttle closed or drive around town on a light throttle the temperature climbs quickly. It takes a good 15-20 seconds for the temperature to drop again when you open the throttle. So if you start your 1/4 mile drag with a hot intake manifold - you are only starting to develop maximum power near the end of the run when the intake has been cooled. The Heatshield gasket kit gives you 4-5% more power immediately by lowering the intake temperature

For the install:
Tools needed:
10mm and 12mm open ended wrenches
10mm and 12mm sockets
A few extensions and swivels for the sockets
Needle nose pliers
Phillips and slotted screwdrivers

You may find it easier to work on if you unbolt the radiator support and hood latch. This will give you more room to work, but is not necessary. Remove the plastic cover from the intake manifold and disconnect the throttle and cruise cables from the brackets that hold them.

Next you will have to disconnect the wire harness on the throttle body and the hoses. Then remove the nut and 3 bolts on the throttle body and carefully pull it off so as to not damage the gasket.

Now you can bypass the water line that goes through the throttle body at this time.

To do this simply use the longer hose to route the water back into the head instead of going into the throttle body.

Next you will need to disconnect the fuel line at the plastic clip and disconnect any hoses that will hinder you from pulling the manifold off. At this time you will also want to remove the brackets that hold the manifold from the bottom. These brackets are held on by 12mm nuts. Now you can remove the 12mm nuts and bolts that hold the manifold to the head. You will need the open ended wrenches for the nuts on the top of the manifold and the sockets and extensions for the bottom ones. You will need the swivel for the bottom center bolt.

Now you will have to remove the stud on the left side of the manifold. To do this use 2 of the nuts you have already removed and put one on backwards and the other on the normal way and tighten the two together then back the whole stud out.

This is what it will look like as you are taking the manifold off.

and what it looks like with the manifold removed (you can now see the brackets that were attached to the bottom of the manifold).

Now remove the old gasket and wipe the manifold and head clean. Since there is still one stud in the head, you can place the Hondata gasket on the head and replace the manifold. You can push down on the gasket on the left side to help align it on the left side. Replace the stud that you previously removed and place washers on them. Make sure that you don't put washers on at least two bolts, or you can relocate the grounding wire for the injectors to the center valve cover stud. Tighten the manifold to the factory specifications from the inside to the outside.

Now make sure you put all the nuts, bolts, hoses, harness plugs and components back together and start the car. If you have done everything correctly, there will be no leaks or explosions. After 2 hours of driving make sure the manifold nuts and bolts are tight.

[estebones]

Hot Rodding the New Civic Si

7G Civic Si - RSX Type-S Hybrid
by Adrian Teo
04/10/2002

Since the introduction of the RSX in late 2001 and new Civic Si (EP3) in 2002, it became pretty obvious that we have another perfect candidate for an engine swap.

The Civic Si comes equipped with a 160hp K20A3 engine and a 5-speed transmission (which is incidentally the same engine in the base model RSX), while the RSX Type-S with a 200hp K20A2 engine coupled with a 6-speed transmission. This swap would bring the Civic Si hatchback up to the power level of the new Civic Type-R (available in Europe and Japan only).

Working alongside "B" at HASport, we successfully performed this swap on his brand new Civic Si. Here's how it's done.

Requirements and Parts
Even though this swap is relatively simple, it requires the use of a lift (or anything that can lift the car high enough as the engine is removed and installed from tbe bottom of the car, as specified in the service manuals. The tight clearances from the top do not allow the removal of this engine with a hoist.

The parts required for this swap are as follows:

K20A2 engine+transmission from an RSX Type-S
K20A2 ECU with the immobilizer reprogrammed to work with the Civic
K20A2 catalytic converter assembly
RSX Throttle Cable




Starting Out
The first step of the swap is the removal of the K20A3 engine.

Engine compartment

From the top of the engine compartment:

1 Disconnect and remove the battery; remove the intake manifold cover.
2. Drain the coolant from the radiator, the motor oil and the transmission fluid
3. Remove the airbox and the air intake tubes
3. Unscrew and disconnect the engine power cables leading to the undehood fuse box.
4. Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable
5. Disconnect the shift cables and unbolt the shift cable bracket.
6. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch hydraulic line mount points from the transmission.
7. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum line
8. Disconnect the EVAP Purge line
9. Disconnect the quick disconnect coupler on the fuel line/fuel rail
10. Disconnect the heater hoses.
11. Disconnect both radiator hoses.
12. Remove the serpentine belt.
13. From inside the car, reach behind the glove compartment and pull the panel that covers the ECU.
14. Unplug the connectors from the ECU.
15. Undo the rubber/plastic grommet in the firewall from the engine compartment 16. and pull the ECU plugs through the firewall.
17. Disconnect all the other wire harness supports holding the wire harness onto the firewall.
heres a pic of what the engine bay should look like when done with this part:



18. Next, lift the car so that the bottom of the engine compartment can be accessed.

19. Remove both front wheels.
20. Undo the sway bar linkages on the front suspension arms.
21. Remove the bottom nut of the front suspension arm ball joint and free the front knuckles from the suspension arm.

22. Unbolt the exhaust a-pipe/catalytic converter from the exhaust header.
23. Unbolt the exhaust a-pipe/catalytic converter from the exhaust pipe.
24. Undo the 32mm axle nuts.
25. Remove both axles, leaving the intermediate shaft bolted onto the block.
26. Unbolt the front and rear engine mount points from the lower subframe.
27. Unbolt the 2 A/C hose clamps on the front side of the subframe.
28. While supporting the subframe, unbolt it from the car (4 bolts) and remove it.
29. Unbolt the A/C compressor from the engine block, and use a rubber bungee to fasten it in place, away from the engine block.

Removing the engine

At this point, the engine is ready to be removed.
1. Supporting the engine from below with an engine stand (this is recommended) undo the final 2 mounts that are holding the engine in place. The car is then raised with the engine resting on the stand.

2. Support engine/transmission from the bottom.
3. Unbolt the transmission mount (driver side)
4. Unbolt the side engine mount (passenger side)
5. Raise the car on the lift slowly, making sure nothing else gets caught in the engine as the car is lifted.

Preparing the K20A2
1. There are a few differences between the Civic Si and RSX-S so a few changes have to be made before the K20A2 is ready to install into the Civic Si.

2. The Civic Si uses an electric power steering assist while the RSX uses a conventiona hydraulc power steering. The power steering pump of the K20A2 has to be removed and swapped with the top idler pulley from the K20A3 engine (from the Civic Si).

3. Unbolt the A/C compressor from the K20A2 since you will be re-using the compressor that you (hopefully) left in the Civic's engine bay.



and this is what you si's engine will look like:


The K20A2 should be ready to be installed into the Civic.

Putting Everything Together

We are now ready to reinstall the K20A2 motor into the Civic. This process is the reverse of pulling the stock motor out.

1. Put the K20A2 onto an engine stand and roll it under the Civic's engine bay.
2. Slowly lower the Civic onto the engine, making sure the engine goes into the engine bay without catching on anything.



3. When the engine is in place, bolt on the transmission mount bracket and the engine mount, making sure it is securely fastened.
4. Lift the car up, the engine should stay in the engine bay.
5. From the underside of the car, bolt the Civic A/C compressor back onto the engine block.
6. Reinstall the front subrfame, making sure the 4 mounting bolts are securely fastened.



7. Fasten the front and rear lower engine mounts back onto the subframe.
8. Reconnect the 2 A/C hose clamps to the front of the subframe.
9. Connect the RSX-S exhaust A-pipe/catalytic converter onto the exhaust header, 10. hang the catalytic converter with the rubber hanger onto the subframe hook. 11. The catalytic converter will be too long to bolt onto the exhaust pipe, we will tackle that later.


12. Reinstall both Civic Si axles and reconnect the lower ball joint of the steering knuckle into the corresponding hole on the lower suspension arm.
13. Fasten the ball joint bolt and insert the cotter pin to lock the ball joint in place.
14. Fasten the axle nuts, stake the lip of the axle nut onto the axle so that it does not come undone.
15. Reinstall the front wheels.
16. Give everything the once over to make sure nothing has been missed. The car can now be lowered to complete the swap from the above.

Back on Top


The next phase is reconnecting everything on the top side of the engine.

1. Reinstall the serpentine belt over the pulleys.
2. Connect both upper and lower radiator hoses.
3. Reconnect the clutch slave cylinder assembly back onto the transmission, and the mounting points for the clutch line to their respective places.
4. Pull the ECU plugs through the firewall and reinstall the grommet.
5. Replace the ECU with the new, reprogrammed RSX ECU.
6. Plug the harness plugs into the ECU.
7. Reconnect the heater hoses to the back of the engine.
8. Reconnect the fuel supply line onto the coupling on the fuel rail.
9. Reconnect the EVAP line and the brake vacuum line.
10. Bolt on the shift cable bracket and reconnect the shift cables.
11. Remove the Civic Si throttle cable and replace it with the RSX throttle cable
12. Connect the throttle and cruise control cables onto the throttle and cruise control pulleys.
13. Reconnect the engine power cables onto the engine compartment fuse box.
14. Reinstall all the air hoses and the airbox.
15.Everything should be done in the engine bay at this point. Per usual, go over everything again just to make sure everything is connected correctly and securely.

Finishing Touches

The final phase of this swap also happens to be the toughest part. The shift housing has to be modified to allow the transmission to shift into reverse, since the reverse position has been replaced by the 6th gear. The shift assembly has to be uninstalled and disassembled. The travel stop is then cut/ground off and the shifter assembly is reinstalled.

Next, the exhaust has to be connected to the catalytic converter. This is an easy job for a competent welder. The exhaust has to be cut and shorteded by approximately 2".


work in progress...