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Discuss the 7th Gen Intake install thread at the 7th Gen Engine DIYS forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
1. It is highly recommended that you have all these tools. =o) What you will need: A:: Hex Driver, B:: Hex Driver, C:: 27mm Deep Socket, D:: 10mm socket, E:: ...

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11-16-2003, 09:01 PM   #1
simplegreen

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Join Date: Jul 2003
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1.
It is highly recommended that you have all these tools. =o)
What you will need: A:: Hex Driver, B:: Hex Driver, C:: 27mm Deep Socket, D:: 10mm socket, E:: 19mm socket (ALTERNATIVE: Torque Wrench), F:: 12mm socket G:: 4" socket extension, H:: B&D 9.6V Firestorm Power Drill, I:: Side Cutters, J:: Socket wrench, K:: 10mm wrench, L:: 12mm wrench.
Jack, Jackstands. (Unless you're skinny enough to crawl under your car)


2.
This is what your AEM CAI should look like when you unpack it.

It should contain 2 main intake tubes, some rubber adapters, hose clamps, screw, nut, washers, stickers, and the filter


3.
Please familiarize yourself with your engine bay!.

4.
Here's another picture of the engine bay, you'll be removing the resonator chamber as well as the air filter box (the two big black boxes).


5.
In order to remove the stock air filter box there are 7 screws/bolts that need to be removed.

Using either your Phillips head screw driver or an 8mm socket, remove the 7 screws/bolts off the air filter box cover.


6.
Now after removing the air filter box cover and air filter, you'll want to grab a 10 mm socket and extension.

Remove the 4 bolts holding on the resonator. DIY Resonator

7.
Alright this is what it should look like with the resonator removed as well as the top of the air filter box

Remember to remove the rubber tube as well as the plastic snorkel that was connected to the resonator. You won't be needing it.


8.
Remove the remaining bolts that hold the bottom of the air filter box down.

Also remove the rubber tube that connects with the crankcase, as well as the sensor to the right.


9.
Now it's time to remove the transmission bracket.

Get your 27mm deep socket and remove the reverse light switch, and make sure not to loose the washer nor drop anything in the gapin 27mm hole.

10.
Remove the ground cable and clutch line bracket.

Next get your 12mm socket and remove the 2 bolts holding the mounting bracket on the transmission housing.


11.
Re-install the reverse light switch remembering the washer..


12.
Install the new AEM supplied bracket.


The AEM instructions call for removing the nut attached to the transmission mount, which requires 40 ft/lbs. of trouqe (USE Torque Wrench), but there is another solution. Thanks to InspectaDeck on 2k1civic.com, pick up a nut to fit (12x1.25). The head size will most likly turn out to be 19mm, at least mine (ph0ng) was. Now just mount the bracket on top of the stock nut, and tighten.

Remember to attach ground cable onto the bracket as well.

13.
Install an adapter sleeve onto the throttle body using one of the 2" hose clamps.

*NOTE* For ACURA 1.7 EL owners, you may wish to cut the adapter sleeve down a bit so the intake pipe will have more clearance. This is due to the fact that there is layer of sound deadening on the EL's Hood.


14.
After tightening the lower clamp, remember to put a second clamp on the sleeve before attaching the upper pipe.


15.
Install the upper intake pipe onto the sleeve and tighten the clamp...


You can also put in the rubber grommet for the sensor at this point, or some have found it easier to place the sensor in the grommet first before putting the grommet into the pipe.

16.
Now mount the support arm to the stock mounting point with the AEM supplied bolt & washer


17.
Connect the breather hose to the crankcase, and clamp down. Install sensor at this point as well if you haven't already.


18.
Install another adapter sleeve onto the end of the upper pipe and have the clamp loose enough for play.

19.
Now mount the clutch line bracket using the AEM supplied bolt..do this from the top.


20.
Insert the lower tube into the adapter sleeve and attach the support arm onto the mounting bolt using the second washer and nut supplied in the kit (10mm). You may need to move and adjust the pipes until they sit flush with the mounting surfaces


21.
Now tighten all your clamps and make sure the tubing sits properly.

23.
It should all look like this now.


24.
Next jack up the car, and crawl under the engine compartment. Using the last hose clamp, slide it over the filter tube, and install the filter onto the lower intake pipe.

You should be able to mount it under the transmission body and not have it touch any parts underneth. The filter should sit just above the splash guard


25.
Now if you believe stickers add 5 HP, then peel off the backing and slap one of em on your intake!



Pictures

http://www.civicland.com/diy/images/
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