B20z Or B18b?

[AkinaDrifter03]

So I'm getting close to purchasing the motor for my 93 CX. I've recently been seeing more and more people deciding to go B20, rather than B18B. Maybe it's because of the price difference...I'de like to know why. Now, I did a bit of research and I found that the B20B produces 126 hp and the B20Z produces 146. Both engines produce 133 ft?lbf of torque, and they are also much cheaper than the B18B.

Since the car is not being driven now I'de like to take advantage of the time I have during winter to do something right. For now I'de just like to get a motor in there, but later on I'de like to boost it; or maybe go N/A and use a GSR head...who knows.

What do you guys recommend?

[dubcac]

The B20B is cheaper than the B18B, because it comes minus a transmission. Most of the CRV's that the B20 came in were automatic or 4wd, so the tranny would be useless. So, you'd need a B series hydraulic tranny of your choice, clutch, flywheel, LS intake manifold and ECU, and mounts to swap in a bseries. The B20Z and 99-00 JDM B20B make more HP than the previous generation B20B due to a higher compression ratio...9.6:1 versus 8.8:1, and it also comes with a knock sensor. I prefer the B20.

[AkinaDrifter03]

Which B series trans would you recommend?

[dubcac]

I'd go with a GSR transmission.

[karizmah]

Dont the b20 blocks have thinner side walls?

[Calesta]

Yes, but they're not made of glass like everyone who doesn't know a damn thing would like you to believe. The B20 block can still handle a good amount of boost and/or all motor mods.

[dubcac]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Calesta @ Nov 22 2005, 12:07 AM) [snapback]96573[/snapback]</div>

Yes, but they're not made of glass like everyone who doesn't know a damn thing would like you to believe. The B20 block can still handle a good amount of boost and/or all motor mods.
[/b]

I still want to do a high comp all motor B20...

[jfred2112]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(dubcac @ Nov 21 2005, 11:22 PM) [snapback]96562[/snapback]</div>

The B20B is cheaper than the B18B, because it comes minus a transmission. Most of the CRV's that the B20 came in were automatic or 4wd, so the tranny would be useless. So, you'd need a B series hydraulic tranny of your choice, clutch, flywheel, LS intake manifold and ECU, and mounts to swap in a bseries. The B20Z and 99-00 JDM B20B make more HP than the previous generation B20B due to a higher compression ratio...9.6:1 versus 8.8:1, and it also comes with a knock sensor. I prefer the B20.
[/b]

4 wheel drive might be cool.
i would go with a b18c1. i think parts are easier to find for the b18s. you could also think about doing a k20 swap. as more and more people are switching to k20a2's in there si's, more k20a3's are out there. the k motors are awsome. i could get ya a k20a from japan and you could have a mean SOB.

[steronz]

if you're starting from scratch, i'd recommend a b16 swap if it's in your budget. without going in to too many details, suffice it to say that it's a lot easier and cheaper getting everything together in a package than piecing it together down the road. i.e., putting together a good LS/VTEC or CRVTEC is much easier when starting with a b16 swap already in the car than starting with an LS swap and getting the b16 head, the b16 tranmission, accessories, etc.


at the very least, get a full LS swap over trying to piece together a b20 long block with a good tranmsission. unless you're like some of these guys with 12 hondas taken apart in their garage, you're gonna nickle-and-dime yourself to death adding all the parts you're missing.

[JustaSolVTEC]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Calesta @ Nov 22 2005, 03:07 AM) [snapback]96573[/snapback]</div>

Yes, but they're not made of glass like everyone who doesn't know a damn thing would like you to believe. The B20 block can still handle a good amount of boost and/or all motor mods.
[/b]

exactly. my 11.6:1 CR-VTEC does just fine.