Disc Brakes

[imported_comutek]

Originally posted by micah@Dec 28 2003, 12:02 PM
I agree with everyone that discs do have better stopping power, but don't the rear brakes only provide something like 20% of the stopping power?* So how much of an improvement would you get by switching to discs in the rear.

So which is better : upgrade discs in front w/ better calipers etc. or swap to discs in the rear?

i'd definately upgrade the fronts before a disc conversion.

[imported_micah]

Yeah that's they direction i was leaning towards also.

[imported_MokujinX5]

I only wish I could buy the whole rear end for $150, but Honda parts are a bit expensive around here, maybe I'm not looking in the right place.

So you're saying that I should lok for GSR front brakes, the proportioning valve and master cylinder instead of the rear discs? I need a trailing arm cause mine is bent right now, so that's why I opted to swap out the rear discs at the same time. The Front brakes would be next. $275 is only for the parts, I still have to pay my shop to install them...

[imported_micah]

Well since your trailing arm is bent, then it does make sense to fix that first... but i was just saying that you'd get more stopping power/per dollar if you upgraded the fronts first. Your choice.

[imported_MokujinX5]

I might just upgrade the front first, then change the rear to discs. (I found some turbo parts for a really good price) The trailing arm for the Civic is only $75 from the same junkyard. I'm still thinking about it though...

[imported_arpa]

Where are you located, I have a 97 civic that I bought for parts to get my 92 sedan driving again. I also have a 93 sedan that I currently drive back and forth to work which will soon be taken off the road and stripped down. I also have a SiR rear brake setup that will be going on the 93 hatch soon, so I'll have those rear brakes off the car. So basically, if you are close I could hook you up for less than $75. And as far as rear disk goes, when talking with one of my friends that does road racing, he dropped 3 seconds off his lap time with also changing the proportioning valve. I forget the time change before he changed the proportioning valve, altho I do remember him saying he went thru alot of rear brake pads before the change.

Hope I can help,
-Mike
P.S. - I'm in the Delaware area

[imported_MokujinX5]

You guys gave me a lot of good information, thanks a lot.
I really have to replace the trailing arm, my rear tires are showing steel now (and I just replaced them not too long ago--- dammit)
Thanks though Mike, I'm in Texas...
-Allen-

[Calesta]

Where in Texas are you? I'm in Austin...

[DIYPgirl]

Calesta , awhile back didn't you go through a rear conversion and choose not to use a proportioning valve??? If so why???

[imported_biocac]

Just to add to this -

I bought and 1/2 built a 1964 VW/Porsch <-- all motor Barian sand rail (dune buggy) a few years back and brakes were my main concern.

That bug had some monster horse power for it's wait so slowing it down was a pain.

I ended up doing a disk setup on it and HAD to use a proportioning valve in it.

Before we used it, the brakes would just "toss" you around.

After the valve was inlined and adjusted, they smoothed right out and stopped on a dime!

My valve also had a dial on it so that I could totally lock up the fr or rr wheels for a "parking brake" as well.

That came in handy for burnouts!

Lates.

Sam -