| 03-17-2005, 04:12 AM | #1 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
|
Ok I've been doing a lot of thinking and now that I just quit my third job I have time to do this.
I need to grab the new calipers from autozone, and I want to try to get the rotors, calipers and pads all replaced by me with the aid of my brother or my dad... or both of them. Anyway, I have a Haynes and i'm casually looking through this thing but too tired to read all of it. I need to know what size nut is it to get the rotor off the hub? What tool do I need to rent to get the rear calipers off the rotors? exactly how do i bleed the lines, and do I even need to when replacing the calipers? What type of brake fluid does Honda use? I'm sure I'm thinking this is harder than it's really going to be. But I'd like to attempt this on my own if at all possible to avoid paying 200 or so for the service. For those of you who don't remember from when I joined, here's what the driver rear rotor looked like in October. http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/uploads//1...0_160_16534.jpg The grinding has gotten even worse and sticks for a short time after I let the brakes off and then finally recedes into the caliper pulling the pad off the rotor. (this is actually happening on BOTH sides... which makes me wonder) I'm gettin tired of gettin looked at by strangers. |
|
|
|
| 03-17-2005, 04:37 AM | #2 |
|
alright. let me make this as simple as possible if i can remember everything of the top of my head:
Tools needed to do a rear brake job. 12mm socket 17mm socket or 14mm impact screwdriver OEM disc caliper tool from autozone/pepboys/advanced auto apart Dead Blow Hammer (3lb) -Ok first remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the caliper on -Then remove the caliper bracket which i believe are held on by either 17mm or 14mm bolts -Now to remove the rotors, your going to need an impact screwdriver, you put the phillips head screwdriver bit and make sure the impact is on loosen, then hit it with a hammer to get the screws loose, you cannot get them with a regular screwdriver. You might want to spray some pb blaster on the screws cause sometimes they are a bitch to get loose. Now you dont have to put them back in, its up to you. -once you got the screws off, now you can take the rotor off, you might have to give it a little nudge, so take the deadblow hammer and hit it off. It wont hurt the rotor, now if you use a regular hammer you might damage the rotor (if your turning them, if your replacing them, who cares) - now you have to use this special OEM tool to turn the caliper back into the bore. The guy at autozone/pepboys/advanced should know what your talking about. You put a 3/8's rachet on it and it just turns the caliper back into the bore. -now make sure you clean all the pad slides and caliper slides so your caliper wont stick anymore, and reassemble everything. Its pretty straight forward. Now i dont see any reason why you should replace your calipers, the reason they are doing that is because they need to be lubed. The calipers slides and pad slides may not have any lube on there anymore, so they cant slide easily back and forth. If your caliper was seized or wasnt working correctly, you would def. feel it when you depressed the brakes. Let me know if you wanna replace the calipers, and ill tell you how to do that too.
__________________
www.brauningmotorsports.com 1992 Civic Hatch - T (almost running) 2006 Scion xB (Daily Driver) |
|
|
|
|
| 03-17-2005, 11:34 PM | #3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
|
Ok so what you're telling me is instead of buying all new calipers I can just pull the piston out and lube it up and stick it back in? would I need to bleed the lines in order to do that?
|
|
|
|
| 03-18-2005, 12:08 AM | #4 |
|
no just pull the caliper pins out relube them and slap em back in, you dont wanna take your caliper piston out. Its a bitch to go back in.
__________________
www.brauningmotorsports.com 1992 Civic Hatch - T (almost running) 2006 Scion xB (Daily Driver) |
|
|
|
|
| 03-18-2005, 12:15 AM | #5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
|
aaaaaaaaaaah ok ok ok I was tired when I read through it, thought I'd ask to make sure.
I can't wait for a warm day. Gotta get this crap fixed up. |
|
|
|
| 03-18-2005, 03:35 PM | #6 |
|
yeah shouldnt take you more than a couple hours to do. good luck.
__________________
www.brauningmotorsports.com 1992 Civic Hatch - T (almost running) 2006 Scion xB (Daily Driver) |
|
|
|
|
| 03-20-2005, 04:21 AM | #7 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
|
Thanks man. You've cleared some shiz up for me here. I'm gonna attempt this next weekend so I can go get my tune up and oil change the week after that.
|
|
|
|
| 03-20-2005, 04:32 AM | #8 |
|
wow look at dan a walking talking diy.
|
|
|
|
|
| 03-20-2005, 05:28 PM | #9 |
|
well i mean its pretty basic stuff. If i caliper seizes all braking power would have been lost on one side in the rear, when those lines are made in your rotors, the caliper is just sticking. Regrease pins and your done.
__________________
www.brauningmotorsports.com 1992 Civic Hatch - T (almost running) 2006 Scion xB (Daily Driver) |
|
|
|
|
| 03-20-2005, 06:37 PM | #10 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 396
|
yeah i gotta do that but my main goal is to get the new rotors and pads installed. My rear rotors are FUBAR'd like mad. Next weekend will be the time. Hopefully it'll be in the 50s.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Brake Rotors | cstcivic | Civic | 3 | 06-12-2005 06:14 AM |
| Removing Rotors | imported_mntdewred | General Tech | 10 | 05-11-2005 02:58 AM |
| Dirty/yellow Rotors | imported_SkorchedZero | Suspension | 7 | 10-29-2004 01:14 PM |
| Brakes And Rotors | Doughboy | Civic | 14 | 03-30-2004 07:41 PM |
| Replacing Disc Rotors | imported_micah | General Tech | 16 | 01-09-2004 02:17 AM |