Uhhhh, Should I Be Worried?

[97 Ex/SiR]

uuuughhhh.... maybe i would be better off throwing in some new cams, clutch, flywheel and a big bottle of laughing gas. its much cheaper, and i dont race all that much anymore.

and with the 2nd job thing.. i worked 61 hours last week. i havnt worked less than 55 hours all year. my dad mentioned buying the car off of me next year some time for my brother or sister to drive. who knows exactly what i am going to do. i think i should figure out EXACTLY what i want before i start tossing money around.. after all, the $$ doesnt come easy. thanks for all the info though.

-Dane

no problem, just wanted you to see the reality of going turbo its not as easy as you think.

[oompahlumpa]

I wasnt meaning that a civ came with a turbo stock by stock turbo I meant like just the turbo running the base boost, I was saying maybe thats all the HP you got out of that kit with the stock setup I was simply saying that with a controller you could get much more out of it (obviously with tuning and building)

yeah your right but keyword there....BUILDING

[KansaiSpoon]

First...going the way of the NA is far more expensive than building a mild forced induction engine which is what you should stick to. Higher performance from NA comes from the higher compression and increased stroke...which you would think is less of a hassle than a turbo, but requires precise maintenence and the results per dollar are sad too say the least. You want a forced induction engine reaching 220-240.

Suffice to say, If you want those numbers, they are very much obtainable. In theory, your engine could handle anything you throw at it...but the question is how long and at what level of endurance. Notice that in Japan, civics and the like mostly compete in endurance races and not high speed trials. They know the fatal flaw of the honda engine...endurance. The majority of your major internals are very strong, such as your crank, your block, etc. Not until you reach higher levels of endurance should these be upgraded. Items such as your retainers, valve springs, small parts meant to hold the BHP of a stock B16 should be the first to be replaced...and for the level you want...need be nearly the last. And even these can handle high loads of work...but then again, only for so long. examples of flaws in design are your basic honda oem valve sping. upgrading to dual valve spring, which, cutting out the technicals, perform better because they are more reliable than the stock single.

Grinding valve seats...which honda should have done in the first place and which most german engines utilize improve performance two fold. Port/Polish, angled and tapered valves, single intake plenum runners, the list goes on and on.

I know good combinations that get reliable 350 HP ranges from only 3K in engine mods...and this is possible because many of your stock componets can be modified without sacrificing durability and basic engine preperation for better air flow and improved design. If you want some combinations, post your engine type, modifications installed, and your price range and I'd be happy to post the synerginical solution for you if you want.

[97 Ex/SiR]

J-spec B16a OBD1
intake, header, test pipe, exhaust.. then just a short shifter and rims. thats all for now.

[imported_MKNTRAXX]

Be afraid be very afraid..

Kidding..


I'm sure even a 30 HP increase will be a nice improvement that you'll enjoy.. And more will come.. Don't rush into things.

[97 Ex/SiR]

i was thinking. a jackson supercharger might be what im looking for. im not looking for tons of power. and i dont want to spend 10k on the engine alone to make it move out pretty quick. i think a JRSC would be a good part to buy. its cheap, and supposedly it makes about 50 more horses on a civic Si. dunno guys, i need to do more research. i think a JRSC would make enough power to make me happy. then maybe some CTR cams. shit.

[KansaiSpoon]

Bore cylinders, honing and resurface the deck of the block.
*No sleeving needs to be done....to be quite honest...its overkill for your setup.

Your crank should then be micropolished. A stock crank is just as good as the basic multi-thousand dollar stroker you buy for high compression setups. Micropolishing just decreases the fluid resistence.

When this is done, upgrading to a better grade compound for your main, rod, and thrust bearings is vital for durability.
Your connecting rods are fine for the job...but they need to be resized to suit the lowered compression and let you benefit fromthe decreased stroke. Upgrading them is fine if you want to pay for something you really dont need.

Pistons and piston size. Try not to get brand name pistons. Its like paying $100 for something that can be bought $20 generic. Pay attention to the metal composits though, name brand or generic, better quality and design can be found in both,but for less in the latter. compression should be kept in the 8.0 area. Good rings should also be used.

Cam gears should also be upgraded to fully adjustable types to allow tunning to you specifications.

Valve springs and retainers need to be upgraded. High quality aluminum retainers and dual valve springs are all that are needed.

Keep stock but get new:
*Oil pan and pump
*seals and gaskets
*Head studs and gasket
*timing belt
*cams
*valve seals

Now the part rarely overlooked but always done wrong, port/polish. Keep in mind that your stock valves and cylinders are good but imperfect. This was done on purpose by honda in the interest of economic efficientcy to capture excesss crud in flow, but you want performance.

*Ports should be ported and polished
*Intake valve guides should be tapered and exhaust valve guides tapered down.
*Valves, full radius intake and three angle down
*Exhaust valves swirl polished
*chambers polished

Air flow is essential, and the different angles and radi written prove to be good flow. But in conjunction with this head work, hand over your intake manifold and throttle body and have the plenum worked/single intake runner and larger diameter. Dont waste your money on these huge intake manifolds that only disrupt air flow instead of streamlining it.

If followed, your engine,with a displacment of nearly 1606 cc has the tollerance for early 340 - 350 HP. Again, durability is the cure. Now you ask, how much should this cost....only 3K. How do I know this? When you do get to this stage, dont go to your local performance shop, look for independant enginnering plants. I know for a fact that there are at least 2, if not more enginnering plants that will do this type of work in the San Diego area. Perhaps this price is less because they are so close to mexico, where labor is very cheap, which may be another option for you and you may pay less than 3K.

The point is not to spend thousands of dollars for something essentially so simple. Put this together with a proper turbo system and accesories and your set. I might add the these HP numbers are very conservative, and the variables are at the smallest yield, there is undoubtly more power there, its up to you to get the most out of it.

[imported_MKNTRAXX]

but that 3k is all in the motor... figure another 2-3k for turbo kit.. 1-2k for fuel system/tuning..

and your a bit higher than he wants to go. price wise...

Gotta pay to play.