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Discuss the Turbo Questions thread at the Forced Induction forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
sounds sweet...when are you wanting to have it all on?...

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10-10-2005, 09:04 PM   #11
Bryan_M

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sounds sweet...when are you wanting to have it all on?
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10-11-2005, 02:27 AM   #12
karizmah

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Im getting the kit in about a week as well as a half rad, but i still need to get some more stuff, And it's going to be winter here real soon so i likley wont get her all completed until spring.
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10-11-2005, 03:24 AM   #13
Hondafig

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How much boost and what size turbo do you wanna run??? 750's are good for probably 300hp. alittle much for stock internals if you ask me. Don't get me wrong it'll take it, but how long you want your motor to last. Have you conserded getting your motor to idle with that much fuel and what about the map sensor? Just food for thought. Have you asked who your getting your turbo kit from what injectors they recommed. The advantage of buying a turbo kit is the engineering involved, use it.
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10-11-2005, 04:15 AM   #14
karizmah

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Quote:
Originally posted by Hondafig@Oct 10 2005, 09:24 PM
How much boost and what size turbo do you wanna run??? * 750's are good for probably 300hp. alittle much for stock internals if you ask me. Don't get me wrong it'll take it, but how long you want your motor to last. Have you conserded getting your motor to idle with that much fuel and what about the map sensor? Just food for thought. Have you asked who your getting your turbo kit from what injectors they recommed. The advantage of buying a turbo kit is the engineering involved, use it.
<div align="right">[snapback]93350[/snapback]

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Well i asked on full-race forums and the tell me to go with 750's and i dont think it'll be unreasonable to say that the motor will put out 300 horse at the crank. Im putting head studs in just for saftey. But i figure about 8lbs maybe 9lbs of boost which should be fine on the motor. I did a compression test on it and it all checks out.
As for a map sensor im gonna run uberdata on a chipped p28 ucu and use the stock three bar. A local guy i know runs a three bar and just dyno'd 401 whp. so....

The turbo is a garrett gt28rs ball bearing.
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10-11-2005, 05:08 AM   #15
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the stock map is NOT a 3 bar...you would have to re-wire and ADD a 3 bar. 750's are good for much more than 300hp in fact..ive made motors that took 450 on 750s. Getting the motor to idle is no problem...any compitent tuner can tune 750;s. I see no reason for you to add a 3 bar for the setup you wanna run it would just be extra wiring. You can run 11psi on the stock map. anything over that probably wouldnt be smart for stock internals anyway. By the way...Theres no difference between buying a kit and peicing one together on your own...theres no extra engineering involved, in fact..you make your own kit(which is what we always do) you can run the piping how you want, run the size downpipe you want, and put parts where you want. So...I see no advantage in buying a kit other than all the parts come together in one package pre made, and especially from full race, you spend twice the amount.

One thing i am going to recommend because its a must, Is a 1:1 Fuel pressure regulator such as an aem, aeromotive or something of the sort. No fmu.

**edit** its not the amount of boost its the hp range of stock internals...i just needed to clarify that.
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10-11-2005, 11:55 AM   #16
karizmah

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Quote:
Originally posted by Resistance98EX@Oct 10 2005, 11:08 PM
the stock map is NOT a 3 bar...you would have to re-wire and ADD a 3 bar.* 750's are good for much more than 300hp in fact..ive made motors that took 450 on 750s.* Getting the motor to idle is no problem...any compitent tuner can tune 750;s. I see no reason for you to add a 3 bar for the setup you wanna run it would just be extra wiring.* You can run 11psi on the stock map.* anything over that probably wouldnt be smart for stock internals anyway.* By the way...Theres no difference between buying a kit and peicing one together on your own...theres no extra engineering involved, in fact..you make your own kit(which is what we always do) you can run the piping how you want, run the size downpipe you want, and put parts where you want.* So...I see no advantage in buying a kit other than all the parts come together in one package pre made, and especially from full race, you spend twice the amount.*

One thing i am going to recommend because its a must, Is a 1:1 Fuel pressure regulator such as an aem, aeromotive or something of the sort.* No fmu.

**edit*** its not the amount of boost its the hp range of stock internals...i just needed to clarify that.
<div align="right">[snapback]93362[/snapback]

[/quote]

I thought the stock map sensor was a 3bar but i guess i wont need to change it anyway. I have a b&m fpr do you think i should upgrade to the aem or aeromotive?
From what i can tell, the kit will work out to almost the same as what i would pay to piece together the same quality/quantity of parts.
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10-11-2005, 05:14 PM   #17
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i know some people here dont like the b&m, but its what i have, and i havent had any problems with it. id keep it for now, as once you start buying everything, u always need more than what you had planned for and it would be good to have the money for other stuff you'll end up having to buy. imo
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10-11-2005, 07:17 PM   #18
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See...i dont have problems with b&m's, only on turbo motors. a b&m is 1/2:1 rise fpr, and has a max of 60psi. an aem is a 1:1 with a max of...whatever your fuel pump can push. on a turbo motor is always better to have more fuel pressure....and a b&m just doesnt cut the cake.
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10-11-2005, 10:52 PM   #19
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dang, i stand corrected. i wasnt aware of that about the aem. maybe after i build the bottom ill have to change mine out to one.
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10-12-2005, 01:23 AM   #20
Hondafig

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I don't see the need for a 3 bar on a 8-9 lb setup. But what size turbo are you talking about, thats really gonna determine the size injector you need. I've helped tune cars with 14 psi on a 15g turbo(really small) with blue top 450's and still run rich all the way threw the gears. Now my understaing and from what I have seen your gonna need the 3 bar to run the 750's, you just can't cut down that much injector to idle in an engine designed for 240's.
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