Forged Rods

[imported_Becker3ww]

I have a 99 Si, am im currently putting in a Garrett T3/T4...on my stock internals, so I can only run something like 5-7 psi street and maybe 10-11 psi on the track. How much pressure would I be able to push through the turbo if I got forged rods and pistons.....and where would be the best place to get those?

[imported_MKNTRAXX]

If you build the motor up right and TUNE IT.. then it should be able to hold up to alot.

Tuning is the key..

The honda experainced guys will chime in here soon with parts ideas but i'm telling you now.. keep the car tuned within safe A/F ratios (11.5 or so) and it'll handle the turbo no problem.

[spooninphilly]

its not how fast you'll get,its how durable. your pistons and con-rods together should be strong enough, along with sleaveing,etc to handle anything. If you are going to take that route, look at stroker kits. I know a guy that knows a couple good names for more or less 2K. Beleive it or not, spoon, the real deal company can give you a stroker kit at a reasonable price. I'll find out and post the brands.

[hkspowers]

if you wish to go the whole set up seperatly though I sugest going with Crower or eagle Rods along with some je pistons and a golden eagle sleeve kit or Dart sleeves. and I would recomend new valve springs and retainers to handle the extra power and to prevent floating pistons.

[imported_JohnnyLawless]

I Don't mean to jack this thread but which JE pistons
2618 forged ones or the SRP 4032 forged ones ?

[hkspowers]

not sure about which one exactly. Just get some with a low compression, and a dimpled top for better combustion. Call and ask JE what the difference is and how much boost each can handle safely.

with pistons, the better the quality of metal, the more durable the part. try to note the rating of the piston when you compare one to another. a piston is judged by its metalurgy(steel, titanium, etc) design( flathead, etc) and a whole bunch of other factors that make it what it is. a forged piston for example has a far better limit of tollerance for the abuse of internal combustion. though these pistons, when you take them out of the box may look tough as steel, going at 7000 revolutions a minute in the fires of hell, the piston will actually expand and contract....deep down, its still plyable metal. In a turbo application, lower compressionis better.....obviously. 8.5 and around is a good compression goal. also the higher the gauge, the the higher the quality and less risk of metal fatige.
I also hear tell of the fantastic qualities of ringless pistons.....but I'll stick to the original designs. if you want a list of things you should, but dont have to do, this is it....

blue print and balance - a company who specializes in this service will measure out the diameters and peramiters of your engine and make sure there is no warpage, no single part ascue and shave down to tolerable specs if need be.

engine sleaving - the engine will be bored out, and in place, forged sleaves put in to "reinforce" the weak properties of an aluminum block.

Upgrade valve pins, valve-springs, etc. - valves especially need to be upgraded, they being also exposed to thethreats of compression, and along with the valve springs, just know that they have to have the right metal tollerance.

I could go on for many hours....from con-rods, to crankshafts, but the point is quality.....an analogy is a victory ship....the US built hundreds of these bastards during ww2, but made them with cheap steel, and alot of them cracked in half and sunk because of weak steel composition...sure they looked strong, a couple nautical miles out and bam, swimming lessons for all.....so dont let you ship sink....or something like that.