Universal Power Window Install (56k Beware)

[imported_DOHCturbohatch]

Ok well here we go..

NOTE: Each install part is followed by pictures for ease of future installations and descriptions.

Parts needed:
Wire strippers
Butt connectors
Wire crimpers (if not on strippers)
Flat head screwdriver
Phillips head screwdriver
Drill with phillips head bit
Small drill bit for cotter pin
Dremel or hole saw (your choice)
Electrical tape
ratchet
extension
10mm socket

First thing i did was grouped all the certain parts to section of install.. Wiring, switches, and connectors in one pile. Screws and mounting brackets in another.

The SPAL directions were very straight forward and needed the smallest of modifications to fit perfectly. The pictures were very precise. You will end up with a box of alot of extra parts at the end.

I started the install by removing the door cover and speaker. Next, you should take out the grab handle pocket and the door handle/lock pocket. Don't forget that there are 3 screws in the 3 little holes around the speaker that need to be removed. Proceed by pulling on the edge of the door panel to pop it off the door. The panel is held in by small pins. Some of the pins might stay in the door so get a pair of pliers and pull them out. Replace any pins in empty panel spots. Set panel aside.

First pull away plastic covering then start by aligning motor up with door to where the position is good for both the window clearance and the sprocket end to fit over the crank shaft comfortably. Attach 2 enclosed brackets with small phillips head screws. Re-align the motor setup back in the spot where it had a good fit. Take drill and medium sized self piercing phillips head screw and drill through mounting bracket into the door. I used 2 screws per bracket for mounting. This way there isnt any movement in the motor during use.



Then proceed to attach supplied "cog sprocket" into the power window sprocket head. Install C clip to hold "cog sprocket" in the head. Install mini cog onto crank shaft. Then install 1 mounting bracket to the opposite side of the mounting bracket that was already attached to the mechanism from the factory. At this point you will want to slide the setup over the "cog" on the crank shaft. This is where you will want to give the brackets a little bend to them. Kinda bend it into a "Z" sorta shape.. this will keep the mechanism away from the door and onto the "cog". Proceed by mounting with screws. Calesta has found out the hard way that the "cog" likes to slide off the shaft. Well i just realized that SPAL has not fixed this problem. So this is where the drill bit and cotter pin come into play... drill a hole straight through the top of the "cog" into the shaft and out the bottom. Insert the cotter pin and bent the bottom around the "cog" so its not sticking out to catch anything. This will hold the cog from falling off and will hold the sprocket from possibly sliding forward.





After its all mounted you will want to run the wiring through the door into the car. This was somewhat of a pain but totally worth it since it looks stock now. Reach your hand into the door and unclip the plastic connector holding the rubber tube to the door. I found it to be much easier to proceed by removing the fenders for access to the car side of the wire tube. remove all the 10mm bolts holding the fender on and remove. Pull tubing grommet out of panel. You will need to remove the electrical tape from the tubing to get access inside for feeding the wiring through. now feed the wires through the tube and into the car. Re-tape the tube so no water can enter. button both the grommet and connector back into the door. reattach the fender on that side.





Now we can take our attention to the cosmetics of the panel. Flip the panel over and u will see that there is a small plastic "bucket" screwed it. This must be removed or shaved down for the motor to fit between the door and panel. You will also remove the slab of foam from the panel on the lower back side. Take the flathead screwdriver and pry the foam up.. beware that the foam is glued on really good. Watch as to not make marks through the plastic panel that will show on the front ( i made that mistake).



I removed the armrest so i could recover it in a different color and to cover the button that you will need to install to hide the crank shaft. You can either do like i did and cut a hole in your armrest for the flat style button then recover or use the other type of button that screws into a holder (u still need to open the hole up). If u dont wanna recover and dont mind a button just cut the hole and install the button.





I then re-wrapped the armrest to hide the button and installed it back into the panel. At this point you can install the panel in reverse order. Set it back into the window slot up top. Then flap the panel down onto the door.. you can just give it a little tappity tap all the way around to reset the tabs into place. install 3 screws by the speaker.. install the speaker and speaker cover. insert grab handle and handle/lock pocket, screw them in.. YOUR DONE WITH THE DOOR!



Now you will have to do the wiring.. Everything is described in the directions on wiring in the switches. Just follow those directions and you will be fine. I'm not including information on wiring since there are so many places to install the switches.. YOU CHOOSE! Here's a pic of where i installed mine for ease of access for both driver and passenger..



Now i hope you've enjoyed your trip down power window install lane but now its time to go... GET OUT MA HOUSE!!!!!!!

[Calesta]

Very very nice. And... duh... cotter pins. I'll do that as soon as the car is drivable again. The 5th gen sedans don't have the cranks mounted conveniently in the armrests, so they'll be a little harder to cover up.

Excellent job on the DIY writeup!

[estebones]

wow that was good...

Dood, i like how the buttons fit right there, i might just get rid of mine and put those in! Sweet!