| 03-10-2004, 10:57 PM | #1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 1,555
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Well, I've finally decided to jump back into the oil pump thing. I'd like to get it replaced either way. I got all the belts off from the motor and finally jammed the piston enough that the crank won't spin . . . now, I can't seem to get the crank pulley bolt out!
I've tried a socket/wrench with a persuader pipe and my foot and I've tried a pnumatic impact wrench with no luck. I can't seem to get enough ass behind it. Does anyone have a clue what I should try next? Thanks! Sam - |
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| 03-11-2004, 03:53 AM | #2 |
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I had this same problem on a D16Z6. Broke a 1/2 extension, broke a ratchet. I finally broke out the torch and got that sucker nice and hot (used almost a half a tank of propane, the heat along with a 22" breaker bar and a 24" cheater pipe I got it out. But I had this engine on a stand when I did this. Best of luck.
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Mortgage Consultant Secure Mortgage Corp Parts Advisor Gary Rome Hyundai Hyundai Accessory Store |
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| 03-11-2004, 05:00 AM | #3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 561
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did you try some rust eater? that stuff works great
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| 03-11-2004, 05:32 AM | #4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 1,555
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I'm about ready to use a few buckets of gas and a rag!
Problem one - The motor is still in the car. I have NO choice about this. Problem two - I've tried penetrators, lubes, heat, "persuader" pipes . . you name it . . and it still won't budge. I don't get it. I know that if I were to use a 3/4" or 1" impact on it, I'm sure it'd budge, the prob is, the pulley is less than inches away from the front unibody already so space is killer limited as to were I can get a tool wedged in there. I might have to drop the whole damn engine somehow . . at least 6" or so. We'll see. I'm still quite not ready to give up on this one, lol Thanks and lates. ![]() |
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| 03-11-2004, 10:46 AM | #5 |
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Posts: n/a
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this is what you do...
Take the motor mount off, lower the engine so the bolt is lowered down below the unibody and you can have some space to work, get you a 3/4 gun or 1" impact and go at it. that dont work, get a 3/4 breaker bar and user a real long STEEL pipe and put it on the end of the breaker bar and break it loose. Or you could heat it up first cause that might help it get out. If no one has ever taken the bolt out before its gonna be a pain getting it out, cause honda puts it on there from the factory with 230ft/lb of torque! |
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| 03-11-2004, 01:42 PM | #6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: upstate ny
Posts: 1,555
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Dan, thanks a bunch for the suggestion. Right now, I think I'll jump on it.
Unfortunately, I'll have an extra few mount points to take off since I've got the traction setup up front . . DOH! Other than that, I'll just have to find a place that will rent me a gun. Thanks again guys! ![]() |
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| 03-11-2004, 02:57 PM | #7 |
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torch the fucker!
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| 03-11-2004, 03:21 PM | #8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Lufkin, TX
Posts: 2,378
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Sawzall?
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| 03-11-2004, 03:57 PM | #9 |
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Posts: n/a
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or what you could do is get a nice long extension go to your local sears and get a 3/4 or 1" 19mm Flex socket and take it off like that, and then go at it with the impact
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| 03-11-2004, 09:44 PM | #10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Maryland
Posts: 187
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i know this is going to sound really bad, but my fiend and i had this problem on his b18, not to mention we were doing this out front of his apartment complex with no air tools, no electricity, just hand tools. what we did was put a tire iron on the bold. then we lowered the car really close to the ground, right where the tire iron was against the ground, but still on the bolt. then, got the key, and kicked the started over. 2 clicks, and that bolt was off. then just spun the threaded part of the bolt out by hand. i know it sounds really bad to do, but outfront of an apartment complex, you just work with it. lol. hey, it worked
good luck man. |
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