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Discuss the Head Removal thread at the General Tech forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
I've never removed a head off of an inline motor before (all motor work prior to this has been on the old Z) but i want to remove ...

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07-27-2004, 05:33 PM   #1
Smooth_Imports

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I've never removed a head off of an inline motor before (all motor work prior to this has been on the old Z) but i want to remove the head on my B18B1 and check everything out before i go ahead and put the motor in (with in the next 3 weeks if everything goes ok). I have a shop manual but haven't looked at it yet.
1. Am i going to have to remove the cams and internals in the head to get the head off the block?
2. Do i need to watch out for anything while removing it?
3. When i go to reinstall it besides replacing the head gasket is there anything i should look out for?
4. I know that bolts need to be tighted in sequence (sp). And i'm sure it's in the shop manual. How sensitive is this?

Let me know as i plan on doing this toninght when i get home.



Thanks,
Mike
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07-27-2004, 05:38 PM   #2
simplegreen

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i would get new bolts if you can some people say stock ones are ok as long as you haven't taken them off before but i'd get a set of arp studs you can score a set for like 100 bucks (when i was looking)

you dont need to take the cams off. although you might want to somehow lock the cams inplace so you know when you put the head back on the cams didn't move and you dont smash up your valves.. i know they sell little locking systems or you can mark them with a marker (i personally woudl do both) while your at it replace the timing belt (20 bucks at any honda dealer ** just like wheel studs **)

you need a torque wrench to put them back on correctly

dont use anything metal to scrap off the residue from the old head gasket a good thing to use is a plastic or rubber window scrapper for ice.. (just not a metal one)
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07-27-2004, 06:54 PM   #3
dubcac

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Your stock head bolts will be fine. When you put them back on, dip them in oil before you slip them in. The correct torquing sequence is crucial for having a proper seal between the head and block. As for the cams, you gotta take them out to get to the head bolts.
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07-27-2004, 07:24 PM   #4
simplegreen

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Quote:
Originally posted by dubcac@Jul 27 2004, 01:54 PM
As for the cams, you gotta take them out to get to the head bolts.
is this different from SOHC?
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07-27-2004, 07:38 PM   #5
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^^Yep...you've got to remove the cams...the head bolts are directly underneath them.
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07-27-2004, 08:30 PM   #6
dubcac

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Quote:
Originally posted by mdlax1+Jul 27 2004, 10:24 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(mdlax1 @ Jul 27 2004, 10:24 AM)</div>
Quote:
<!--QuoteBegin-dubcac
Quote:
@Jul 27 2004, 01:54 PM
As for the cams, you gotta take them out to get to the head bolts.
is this different from SOHC?[/b]
Yes. And the timing belt will probably be about 50-60 bucks from the dealer. Don't skimp on an aftermarket cheapy belt.
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07-27-2004, 09:53 PM   #7
imported_Lacuna

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The head bolts are underneath the cams, and cheapy belts are bad. I had one that was just a bit to big, what a pain in the ass! Helms manuals has instructions on removing the head if you need help.
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07-28-2004, 06:04 AM   #8
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D-series does not require the removal of the cams, but in a b you do have to remove them. It is best to loosen the head bolts in the opposite of the tightening sequence. Just a little fyi, a torque patern will always be an outward spiral from the center.
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