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Discuss the Rear Brakes thread at the General Tech forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
Last october I did my front brakes, no sweat once I realized which bolts to go after to get the calipers off. It was quite fun though, I learned a ...

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01-18-2005, 05:23 AM   #1
2000Si

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Last october I did my front brakes, no sweat once I realized which bolts to go after to get the calipers off. It was quite fun though, I learned a lot about braking and suspension from doing it myself.

Pic of my new oem valucraft front pads, which are quite nice, except when you do a 70-0 brake stand. The only time I've ever felt fade. (don't ask me why I did that, it was stupid)
http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/uploads/10..._1099629271.jpg

When I did them I thought that they were the ones grinding. I was wrong.

So for the past few months I've had bad braking grinding on my rear brakes, now the problem has gotten bad enough that something is rubbing against something else when the brakes aren't applied.

http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/uploads/11..._1106024826.jpg

As pictured above, the driver-rear rotor has noticable grooves in the middle of the rotor. I know it grinds upon braking, but the grinding sound without brakes applied sounds like it comes from the passenger-rear side. (where I had a pretty hefty nail flatten my tire) Could that have sent the wheel off balance and caused things to rub in anyway?

When I did the fronts I only changed the pads, but I have rotors and pads for my rear, but no money to take them to the shop... and I don't want to drive into the dealer with my brakes grinding for an oil change.

My question basically is this... how much harder is it to do the rear brakes? I know I need a special tool that I can rent from Autozone because of the ebrake cable, but how hard is it to take the rotor off? any other special tools I'd need? Any special attention I'd have to pay to certain areas while taking off my old rotors and installing the new ones?

Thanks for any help.
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01-18-2005, 06:04 AM   #2
Doughboy

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I have all disk brakes on my coupe and I dont remember any complications removing the stock ones.

The groove on my rotor came from a bad spring in the Caliper causing the degree to be off and cause the groove (only from braking, not ordinary driving)

My old rotors - 10yrs old haha and all i needed was the phat screw driver and a hammer to break the rust behind the rotor. You shouldnt have too much of a problem being your car is not really old.

-goodluck
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01-18-2005, 06:08 AM   #3
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By looking at that rotor it looks as if you need to change the caliper. I replaced all my rotors with brembo crossdrilled, all 4 pads, and 2 rear calipers for like $350 w/ shipping thru www.sportbrakes.com

Im not sure if you want to do everything but you should call them being they have stock parts available for your car as well.
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01-18-2005, 06:43 AM   #4
2000Si

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damnit... i can't afford to get new calipers... I was just going to wait and get the fastbrakes upgrade kit.

11.75 front rotors, twin piston Wilwood calipers, hawk pads

11.0 rear rotors, single piston Wilwood calipers, hawk pads.

Guess I'm just gonna have to get the work done when I can. 3rd job... here i come.
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01-18-2005, 06:48 AM   #5
Doughboy

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Hey, You need em! right, not only that but its an upgrade and a nice one at that! Spending the $$$ on brakes sucks but after having them you will be pleased...Take my word for it. I needed mine many of times..
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01-18-2005, 07:18 AM   #6
2000Si

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Well thanks for your help, I guess I'll be stopping by Honda and autozone to price new rear calipers.
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01-18-2005, 07:26 AM   #7
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no problem mang~!
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01-24-2005, 07:31 PM   #8
imported_DIYperformance

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Quote:
Originally posted by 2000Si@Jan 17 2005, 11:23 PM
My question basically is this... how much harder is it to do the rear brakes? I know I need a special tool that I can rent from Autozone because of the ebrake cable, but how hard is it to take the rotor off? any other special tools I'd need?
To answer this, it's pretty much the same process as the front. Aside from the e-brake cable, the only other difference in rear discs as opposed to front discs is that the calipers' piston has to be dialed in to compress, rather than just pushing it in like the front calipers. To do this, just use a pair of needle nose pliers and put them into the grooves that you'll find on the dial itself.

And thanks for doing it yourself.
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01-24-2005, 08:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2000Si@Jan 18 2005, 01:43 AM
damnit... i can't afford to get new calipers... I was just going to wait and get the fastbrakes upgrade kit.

11.75 front rotors, twin piston Wilwood calipers, hawk pads

11.0 rear rotors, single piston Wilwood calipers, hawk pads.

Guess I'm just gonna have to get the work done when I can. 3rd job... here i come.*
When did he start shipping kits with rear Wilwood calipers? I just checked his site- there's nothing about that there.
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01-24-2005, 09:43 PM   #10
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your caliper may be seized?? i dunno my moms chrystler sebring had that problem, i just replaced the rotors, pads, and flushed the brake system, never happened again.
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