Arp Head Stud Install?,

[Smooth_Imports]

So i put loctite on the studs and put them in the block, put the head on and lubed up the threads. When i went to put the nuts on they don't thread? Does anyone know what size the nut is supposed to be? The ones i have are M10 x 1.25. B18b1 block / head the ARP set i have is 802-4302. Now also what i'm worried about is that it's been sitting overnight and the loctite is dried and the insturctions say to do the final torque on the head before it dries, Is this going to be a problem? If it is, What should i use to loosen the loctite to take the studs out and tap the threads in the block to clean them.

[Hybrid_Coupe]

definately..take them out and redop everything...the reason they tell you to do it before it dries is because you want the stud to thread in a little as you torque them down, or else it will start pulling up on the threads in the block. i personally dont use loctite ever on a motor i build....but thats just my opinion.

[Smooth_Imports]

OK so what should i use to loosen the loctite? Anything or just tug hard to break the lock?

ok so i just got off the phone with ARP and they sent me the wrong nuts.
The nut size is supposed to be 7/16-20

[udelose]

I agree with Resistance98EX...

I never use loctite with any engine build. You should never need to use it when you are torquing bolts. Once you acheive the clamping force of the torqe spec the bolt or stud will never loosen.

ARP specifically tells you on studs to only hand tighten them hand tight in the block. they give you anti seize greese with their own lube also.

Your going to have to pull them out clean the threads and then chase the threads in the block with a tap. then blow out the debre...

use anit seize for aluminum on the block side and the head side threads use the ARP lube or the weight oil they recommend... usually 30 weight.

Remember... if they didnt use loctite from the factory and they didnt loosen... the studs wont either :P

If you have the allen wrench type you should be able to work it in 1/4 turns loosen... tighten...

once it loosens take couple turns in couple turns out to try and clean all the threads as your taking it out. still chase it with a tap though you dont want any leftover debree on the threads..

GL

[Smooth_Imports]

So should i really take them out, Or just leave the studs in sence it's the nuts that are bad, I'm just scared that i might fuck up the threads in the block if i try and take them out. Sence the oil pan, windage tray and oil pick up are already installed, Am i going to have to make all of this back off to make sure no debree has fallen down there? So the stud holes go all the way through?

[Smooth_Imports]

O and another thing. Ther biggest tap i have is 10mm and the thread in the block are 11. And it's really deep how an i supposed to get the tap down there to clean the threads? can i go from the bottom? i 'm not sure? What if any problems will i have it i leave them in. I don't want to but i'm more worried that if i take them out somethings goign to break/

[udelose]

Dont remember if on your block if they go all the way through or not. I dont believe they do.

I guess I personally would take them out since I like to put anti seize on all alum touching bolts/studs...

I guess if they are seated hand tight in the block and ALL the threads are in the block you should be fine. There is a shank where the theads end going up the stud .. that should be seated on the shoulder of the threads in the block.

You should be fine with leaving them in ... its really just a personal preference to me.

[Smooth_Imports]

Yeah i'm just going ot leave them in. For one, i don't have an 11mm tap, and i don't know if the threar pitch is 1.25 or 1.5 anyway. Also i don't want to fuck the threads up in the block, I'm hoping it will be fine. Do you know why they say only put them hand tight into the block? I think when i put them in a put alittle force on them, Nothign huge but it was more then finger tight.

[Smooth_Imports]

ok will i called ARP again because this shit has me trippin.

I asked if i should take the studs out clean them ect ect ect.

ARP said not to worry about it if the loctite has already cured,(because the stud setting doesn't go intot he water jacket. They said just start at 40lbs and then go up in steps of 10lbs until i hit 70. Then they said after 200 miles check the torque and if it measure out it will be all good. They did say though if wanted to take them out i would need to heat them up then let them cool down again and use some type of solvent to break the loctite up or i could pull the threads out of the block. So yea i'm kinda more relaxed now that i got an answer from the horses mouth. Thanks guys for the info, i knew both of you know your shit so thanks for the help.

On another note, Will hows the stang coming along?

[udelose]

hehe the big bird is getting the latest motor put in and will be sold in the spring.

I sold the t-88 and looking to buy either a single gt42r or twin gt35r's for the 05 stang.

fabbing up some hotside parts for it...

i bought the car in october and already modding it LMAO... i cant leave anything alone... or stock...