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Discuss the Tranny Dissasembly/input Shaft Bearing thread at the General / Technical Information forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
Well, my story began last week when my transmission started making weird noises. These noises included a whine at high RPM, and a chatter/clicking from the transmission at idle. ...

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10-07-2005, 02:51 AM   #1
Vtec_Power

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Well, my story began last week when my transmission started making weird noises. These noises included a whine at high RPM, and a chatter/clicking from the transmission at idle. This chatter went away when I depressed the clutch. So, being the HT junkie that I am...I searched HT for some answers.

The main consensus was that it was an Input Shaft Bearing (Helms calls it the "Clutch Housing Bearing"). This bearing sits between the clutch housing and the mainshaft. So today, I finally got around to taking my transmission off and disassembling it.

How to take off the transmission (copied mostly from Helms manual):
1. Disconnect battery from negative terminal.
2. Remove air intake.
3. Disconnect starter cables and transmission ground wire.
4. Remove the engine wire harness clamp.
5. Disconnect the back-up light switch and speed sensor connectors.
6. Remove clutch pipe bracket and slave cylinder
Note: Do not operate clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed
7. Loosen the lugnuts on the two front wheels.
8. Jack front end of car up. Make sure it is properly supported (Jackstands work well)
9. Remove front wheels.
10. Remove the transmission housing bolts (There are 9, 4 at the top, 5 on the bottom)
11. Drain manual transmission fluid.
12. Remove the axles. You must unbolt the fork at the wheel hub, there are 3 bolts for each fork, and then pull the hub (with axle still attached) outwards so that the axles come out of the transmission.
13. Unbolt catalytic converter from header.
14. Remove the shift linkage (both bars)
15. Remove the front stopper bracket (3 bolts)
16. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor
17. Unbolt starter from transmission.
18. Unscrew gas gap and unbolt fuel line from firewall.
19. Place a jack with a piece of wood on the top under the oil pan.
20. Remove the transmission side mount.
21. Remove the clutch cover (2 bolts)
22. Remove the transmission rear mount bolts and the remaining transmission housing bolts.
23. Slowly drop engine down, pull the transmission away from the engine until it clears the mainshaft.

Note: Those are just the written directions. I may have missed some things, but that is the helms directions and then a few things that I did today that werent in the helms. I dont suggest anyone pull off their transmission unless they have a helms manual in front of them. The illustrations are a major :thumbup:

Helms manual OWNZ j00!


How to remove the transmission housing:
1. Remove the back-up light switch
2. Remove the transmission hanger B.
3. Remove the transmission attaching bolts.
4. Remove the 32mm sealing bolt (can be done with a 3/8" ratchet)
5. Expand the snap ring on the countershaft ball beaing and remove it from the groove using a pair of snap ring pliers.
6. Separate the transmission housing from the clutch housing and wipe it clean of the sealant.

Note: The snap ring is a bitch to get off. If you have a set of needle nose pliers, just keep expanding the ring and prying at the transmission housing with screwdrivers...it took me and my friend 20 mins but it came off :thumbup: :thumbup:



How to remove mainshaft, countershaft, shift fork, and reverse idler gear to get to input shaft bearing:
1. Remove the reverse shift holder.
2. Remove the reverse idler gear shaft and gear.
3. Remove the interlock guide bolt from under the clutch housing (8mm allenhead bolt)
4. Remove the shift arm B attaching bolt.
5. Pull mainshaft and countershaft assemblies with the shift fork straight up, and out of the transmission.

How to remove input shaft bearing (also called clutch housing bearing):
Use long extension and a 5/8" socket and go in through the clutch housing side and tap the extension with a hammer lightly until the bearing comes out. Very simple to do.

And WHALA! You're done. My bearing looked fine, but when i spun it, it made a clicking noise...so I assume this was the source of my problem =)


The bottom half of the transmission:


Center: Mainshaft, countershaft, and shift fork assemblies
Bottom: Differential


Yep...I keep all my bolts organized :thumbup:


Also, one more thing. Upon inspection of the housing, i noticed that there was a small section missing in the area where the snap ring sits.

From the outside (kinda blurry):


From the inside:


Is that normal? Or do I have a chunk of my tranmission missing...if someone has done this before please offer some insight...I have concluded that this is normal and was not a chunk missing from my transmission

UPDATE 8/27/03:

I just finished putting the transmission back on the car, and everything works perfectly. The input shaft bearing was the problem. Also, for some reason my countershaft bearing had backed out of the casing, so I tapped it back in with a hammer and all was good again =) I also had a problem aligning the interlock guide bolt with the groove in the shift arm, so make sure when assembling the transmission to align the interlock guide bolt with the hole in the shift arm. Also, make sure that you apply RTV silicone to the interlock guide bolt threads and the 32mm sealing bolt.

Your countershaft bearing should NOT sit out like this (note also the new input shaft bearing to the upper left):


This is how your countershaft bearing should sit:


IMPORTANT! Make sure you align the interlock guide bolt with the groove under the shift arm, I unfortunately did not the first time and bent the shift arm as you can see here (if you do this you will be locked out of 1st, 2nd, 5th, and reverse gears):


Transmission installation is the reverse of taking it apart. To put the transmission back on the car, I suggest that you have a jack under both the tranny and the engine so you can align the two for easier installation. Also, make sure you coat the mainshaft spline and the clutch fork (thing that slave cylinder goes into) with anti-seize lubricant. If anyone has any questions, please reply, and if necessary I can post reassembly instructions.

Good Luck


AUTHOR: BauleyCivic From Honda-Tech.com
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10-11-2006, 03:43 PM   #2
peewee

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Default

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Vtec_Power @ Oct 6 2005, 09:51 PM) [snapback]93076[/snapback]</div>
Quote:
Well, my story began last week when my transmission started making weird noises. These noises included a whine at high RPM, and a chatter/clicking from the transmission at idle. This chatter went away when I depressed the clutch. So, being the HT junkie that I am...I searched HT for some answers.

The main consensus was that it was an Input Shaft Bearing (Helms calls it the "Clutch Housing Bearing"). This bearing sits between the clutch housing and the mainshaft. So today, I finally got around to taking my transmission off and disassembling it.

How to take off the transmission (copied mostly from Helms manual):
1. Disconnect battery from negative terminal.
2. Remove air intake.
3. Disconnect starter cables and transmission ground wire.
4. Remove the engine wire harness clamp.
5. Disconnect the back-up light switch and speed sensor connectors.
6. Remove clutch pipe bracket and slave cylinder
Note: Do not operate clutch pedal once the slave cylinder has been removed
7. Loosen the lugnuts on the two front wheels.
8. Jack front end of car up. Make sure it is properly supported (Jackstands work well)
9. Remove front wheels.
10. Remove the transmission housing bolts (There are 9, 4 at the top, 5 on the bottom)
11. Drain manual transmission fluid.
12. Remove the axles. You must unbolt the fork at the wheel hub, there are 3 bolts for each fork, and then pull the hub (with axle still attached) outwards so that the axles come out of the transmission.
13. Unbolt catalytic converter from header.
14. Remove the shift linkage (both bars)
15. Remove the front stopper bracket (3 bolts)
16. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor
17. Unbolt starter from transmission.
18. Unscrew gas gap and unbolt fuel line from firewall.
19. Place a jack with a piece of wood on the top under the oil pan.
20. Remove the transmission side mount.
21. Remove the clutch cover (2 bolts)
22. Remove the transmission rear mount bolts and the remaining transmission housing bolts.
23. Slowly drop engine down, pull the transmission away from the engine until it clears the mainshaft.

Note: Those are just the written directions. I may have missed some things, but that is the helms directions and then a few things that I did today that werent in the helms. I dont suggest anyone pull off their transmission unless they have a helms manual in front of them. The illustrations are a major :thumbup:

Helms manual OWNZ j00!


How to remove the transmission housing:
1. Remove the back-up light switch
2. Remove the transmission hanger B.
3. Remove the transmission attaching bolts.
4. Remove the 32mm sealing bolt (can be done with a 3/8" ratchet)
5. Expand the snap ring on the countershaft ball beaing and remove it from the groove using a pair of snap ring pliers.
6. Separate the transmission housing from the clutch housing and wipe it clean of the sealant.

Note: The snap ring is a bitch to get off. If you have a set of needle nose pliers, just keep expanding the ring and prying at the transmission housing with screwdrivers...it took me and my friend 20 mins but it came off :thumbup: :thumbup:



How to remove mainshaft, countershaft, shift fork, and reverse idler gear to get to input shaft bearing:
1. Remove the reverse shift holder.
2. Remove the reverse idler gear shaft and gear.
3. Remove the interlock guide bolt from under the clutch housing (8mm allenhead bolt)
4. Remove the shift arm B attaching bolt.
5. Pull mainshaft and countershaft assemblies with the shift fork straight up, and out of the transmission.

How to remove input shaft bearing (also called clutch housing bearing):
Use long extension and a 5/8" socket and go in through the clutch housing side and tap the extension with a hammer lightly until the bearing comes out. Very simple to do.

And WHALA! You're done. My bearing looked fine, but when i spun it, it made a clicking noise...so I assume this was the source of my problem =)


The bottom half of the transmission:


Center: Mainshaft, countershaft, and shift fork assemblies
Bottom: Differential


Yep...I keep all my bolts organized :thumbup:


Also, one more thing. Upon inspection of the housing, i noticed that there was a small section missing in the area where the snap ring sits.

From the outside (kinda blurry):


From the inside:


Is that normal? Or do I have a chunk of my tranmission missing...if someone has done this before please offer some insight...I have concluded that this is normal and was not a chunk missing from my transmission

UPDATE 8/27/03:

I just finished putting the transmission back on the car, and everything works perfectly. The input shaft bearing was the problem. Also, for some reason my countershaft bearing had backed out of the casing, so I tapped it back in with a hammer and all was good again =) I also had a problem aligning the interlock guide bolt with the groove in the shift arm, so make sure when assembling the transmission to align the interlock guide bolt with the hole in the shift arm. Also, make sure that you apply RTV silicone to the interlock guide bolt threads and the 32mm sealing bolt.

Your countershaft bearing should NOT sit out like this (note also the new input shaft bearing to the upper left):


This is how your countershaft bearing should sit:


IMPORTANT! Make sure you align the interlock guide bolt with the groove under the shift arm, I unfortunately did not the first time and bent the shift arm as you can see here (if you do this you will be locked out of 1st, 2nd, 5th, and reverse gears):


Transmission installation is the reverse of taking it apart. To put the transmission back on the car, I suggest that you have a jack under both the tranny and the engine so you can align the two for easier installation. Also, make sure you coat the mainshaft spline and the clutch fork (thing that slave cylinder goes into) with anti-seize lubricant. If anyone has any questions, please reply, and if necessary I can post reassembly instructions.

Good Luck


AUTHOR: BauleyCivic From Honda-Tech.com
[/b]

Thansk for the detailed write-up. I unfortuantely changed my throwout bearing, thinking it was the culprit of your exact problem...
i was curious what type of tranny your write-up is on. I need to change the Input shaft bearing on a 97 civic HB... 1.6 base model... i just want to make sure i dont need any special tools. (i.e. bearing press)
thanks
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05-03-2008, 03:13 AM   #3
prlatino

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Default Re: Tranny Dissasembly/input Shaft Bearing

hey can u post up or pm the reassembly of the tranny. thnx
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05-31-2009, 07:44 AM   #4
skeeter

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Question Re: Tranny Dissasembly/input Shaft Bearing

I just changed the input shaft bearing on my 93 5 speed. the shaft works good until i put the tranny case on and tighten it down then the shaft locks up and wont turn no more. do you have any idea what i did wrong
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06-23-2009, 01:37 AM   #5
BigRed

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Default Re: Tranny Dissasembly/input Shaft Bearing

Hello VP,

I am replacing my bearing tomorrow.
Your post is excellent.
Thank you so much.

BigRed
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