H22 Into 92-95 Civic Swap Info

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This is a Detailed H22 Civic Swap from Honda Tuning~

Source = Honda Tuning




Fitting the H22 in our Civic engine bay poses a challenge since it's larger than the B- or D-series engines. Installing the H is like getting a size-12 foot into a size-10 shoe. It'll fit, but it's cramped and you'll lose some functionality.

The first things you'll sacrifice to do this swap are your power steering and A/C. The Civic engine bay isn't wide enough for the necessary accessory belts. You can make it work with a lot of cutting, so if your fab skills are up to scratch, have at it. Our recommendation: If you want power steering and A/C, build up a B series instead.

The passenger-side engine mount needs slight trimming to clear the new mount when attached to the car. Also, a new and larger assembly is attached to the rear of the engine for the rear engine mount, again for clearance reasons. One of the studs on the transmission must be cut to clear the engine mount. There are also several minor mods you need to make, such as re-routing hoses.

That said, installing the engine isn't terribly difficult if you have the right tools. But there's more to the install than the engine itself. It shares the same general configuration as the B- or D-series engine, but the transmission is another matter. It requires its own amount of cutting and even welding.

The problem is the linkage. The B-series trannies use a rod linkage, while the H series uses cables. The two systems mount to their respective vehicles in totally different ways. The B-series linkage is directly under the shifter, while the H-series cables snake under the console to a hole in the firewall on the Prelude.

The only way to make it work is to weld the entire shifter mechanism onto the Civic center hump, in place of the old shifter. The firewall hole is enlarged with a Sawzall and four nuts are welded in place where the shifter's mounting bolts will go.

Finally, you need to cut a hole in the Civic floor to route the two shifter cables. This is a tricky proposition. Route them too far back and the cables will kink, making it difficult or impossible to shift; too far forward and you risk cutting through one of the main conduits of the Civic brain. Luckily, Holeshot Racing's Aaron Bonk knows where to cut and got it right, although even with his expertise, it was a tight cut.

From this point, it's a straightforward matter of re-attaching the various accessories, hoses, cables and wires. It's more time consuming than difficult, although if you didn't keep track of what goes where, you're screwed. Take notes! For the most part, the various coolant lines and accessories snap into place. The only belt that needs installation is for the alternator.

In the next installment, we'll add an intake and exhaust system from HyTech and then hit the dyno for a tuning session with Hondata's Doug MacMillan. For now, we just slapped on the stock Prelude intake pipe with K&N filter and 'Lude exhaust manifold. Not too glamorous, but it works and gets us on the road.

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[1-2] With the engine out, we performed a couple of last-minute installs, including this clutch from WHO and high-flow fuel rail from AEM.


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[3] We ditched the stock throttle body (left) in favor of a larger bore from RC Engineering.


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[4] The D-series engine first needs to be disconnected from the car in every way.

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[5] And through the magic of photography, it takes seconds. In reality, this is a time-consuming process. If you're new to this, make sure you label what goes where since you'll need a lot of the same hoses and connections later.

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[6] With the engine disconnected, unbolt it from its mounts and raise the car on a hydro lift. Watch your feet. Don't have access to a lift? Cherry pickers aren't too expensive to rent. Watch the paint as you hoist the engine out of the bay. Meanwhile, a D-series engine in good working order is worth a few hundred bucks, and makes a worthwhile replacement for '80s vintage Civics

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[7] These are the stock engine mounts for the D engine...



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[8] ...and these are the Holeshot Racing replacements. Note there's no front mount. We didn't forget to shoot it. It's just not used. The remaining mounts are adequate to hold the engine in place.



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[9] The engine bay needs some prep before the engine goes in. For starters, this heater hose is removed since the H22 uses a different routing.

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[10] Here the rear mount is installed. Note the new heater hose mounted above it (with the screw-clamp).

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[11-12] The passenger-side engine mount needs some trimming to accommodate the bigger engine. You also need to drill new mount holes.

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[13] The driver-side mount bolts into place without modification.

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[14] With the tranny bolted to the block, the engine is almost ready to go in.


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[15] First, we need to cut this mounting stud to fit the passenger-side mount.

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[16] We installed all of the engine mounts once the H22 was settled in the bay except for this passenger-side mount. Much easier to tighten the nut (where the stud was cut) with the engine out of the car.

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[17-20] Getting the H into the engine bay is as easy as removing it. Place the engine under the car, lower down the ride, and, voila, it's in.

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[21] Ratchet down the two bolts for the driver-side mount.

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[22] Here's why we bolted on the passenger side mount before installation - no clearance.

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[23] The beefy rear mount eliminates the need for a front mount.

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[24] With the engine secure in the bay, we reinstall the center shaft in preparation for the drive axles.

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[25] The Prelude axles are too long, so we'll need new ones.

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[26] Drive axles installed, it's time to reattach the hub.

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[27] We use a steel-braided line for the clutch. It's not a weak point or anything, but we do need a custom line, so why not go steel-braided?

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[28] Next we install the starter motor.

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[29] The alternator and its bracket are reinstalled on the engine block. We'll attach the belt later.

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[31] The stock fan won't clear the engine, so we go with a smaller, narrower-profile, pusher-type fan.

[31] The stock fan won't clear the engine, so we go with a smaller, narrower-profile, pusher-type fan.

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[32] The new fan mounts in front of the radiator, blowing air across it and saving room. Note the proximity of the transmission housing.

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[33] The engine is only half of it. Connecting the transmission linkage is no picnic, either. This is the original D-series linkage. Note that it's a rod-type linkage, and the shifter (far right) pulls or pushes on the rods to change gears.

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[34] The H series uses a cable shifter. The shifter (top) tugs on two cables that change the gears. It's a bigger problem than it sounds.

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[35] This is the stock hump in the Civic. It requires some serious modification before the new shifter will fit.

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[36] Using a Sawzall, we cut away excess material around the shifter and create a large square hole to accommodate the new mechanism.

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[37] Aaron welds mounting bolts to the Civic floor, giving the new shifter a secure place to sit.

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[38] The mods result in a less-than-factory look, but it's no thing. The center console plastic will cover it all anyhow.

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[39] Finding the right place to cut the hole for the shift cables requires knowledge about the Civic's innards. A bit of luck doesn't hurt, either.

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[40] Even with his experience, Bonk comes close to cutting through the Civic's brain stem. Yikes! No harm, no foul though.

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[41] Cut at just the right angle, the hole allows the cables to pass through to the engine compartment without a sharp bend that would make them bind. At this point, reattaching the cables is a snap.

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[42] Neither the stock Civic nor Prelude fuel line will fit, so we add a new stainless-steel line.

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[43] Getting close to the end. The coolant hoses are re-installed. Since these are stock Prelude pieces, they fit perfectly.

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[44] Installed, assembled and ready to go.

[Rlowzgurl4eva]

so let me ask you before i go and waste time trying to find a h22 motor and trans. will i beable to put a turbo on as well in a 95 ex civic or what and how much more fabs will i need to do for that

[Rlowzgurl4eva]

so let me ask you before i go and waste time trying to find a h22 motor and trans. will i beable to put a turbo on as well in a 95 ex civic or what and how much more fabs will i need to do for that thanks mandy

[saadikamali]

i have a eg cx and is the obd1 or 2 better to fix or does it matter every thin else looks not too hard i just such at wiring and could u tell me how to change the wiring harness, n e splicing hand step by step on how its doneplz help ill love u 4ever