H22a Into A Civic Info

[civic31g]

H22A into Civic information:
MERGING OBD1 CIVIC HARNESS TO H22A ENGINE:
- Take off and mark every single harness connector on where it came from/where it goes from both H22A and stock civic engine. Make sure you label them of where pulled the plug from! This will save a TON of time!

Mount Civic harness on H22A and measure/modify wire to be lengthened/changed as follows:

- Change fuel injector connectors to H22A type and add resistor pack from H22A harness to Civic harness (see diagram on page 4)
- Extend Alternator wires to reach the H22A alternator (match the pinouts)
- Lengthen wire that goes to the starter solenoid on starter
- Attach reverse light sensor wire to the new H22A reverse light sensor wire

O2 sensor (CX only) add 3 wires to O2 sensor and follow o2 wires and change to Prelude O2 sensor connector. And wire the following:

- WHT/RED wire goes to D14 which is O2 Sensor Input
- ORG/BLK wire goes to A6, which is Heater Control
- GRN/WHT wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
- YEL/BLK wire goes to A25 which is Sensor voltage

VTEC wiring: This applies to DX,LX,CX models only in 93-95!

- Wire from the VTEC Solenoid to the A4 pinout at the ECU. Add the pin to the shock tower harness, and female pin at the female shock tower connector.

Knock sensor wiring: (mounted at the rear of the engine near the cylinder head)

Air Intake Bypass solenoid (secondary butterflies)

- Sensor voltage to the A25 pinout (or splice into the Yel/Blk wire connector at the driver shock tower harness.
- ECU Signal leading to A17 pinout on ECU

EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) System: Applies to all model civics except VX

- EGR lift valve solenoid ? sensor voltage (A25 pinout) & ECU signal to A11
- EGR lift sensor ? sensor voltage (A25 pinout), ground (D22 pinout) & ECU sensor signal to D12

MOUNT KITS AVAILABLE:

- HASport mount kit
- Place Racing Mounts
- HCP Mount kits

MAINTENANCE PRE-CAUTIONS

- Timing Belt for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $39.99 from AutoZone
- Water Pump for 92-96 USDM Prelude VTEC (2.2L) - $34.99 w/lifetime warranty from AutoZone
- Spark Plugs for USDM 92-96 Prelude VTEC (2.2L) ? approx. $8
- Extended Fuel filter hose (from fuel filter to fuel rail) ? You can use an extended fuel line and use hose connectors/clamps, or contact a local hose factory to have a custom hose made.
- Throttle Body gasket for Prelude VTEC (Honda dealership) $7

Drivetrain options:
- Right 90-93 Integra Axle
- Left Custom 92 Prelude Inner CV joint with 90-93 shaft & Outer CV joint from Raxles for $170 1-800-257-8192
OR
- 1990 Accord Intermediate Shaft
- Left and Right 90-93 Integra Axles
OR
- Driveshaftshop.com Stage/Level 1 axles Right & Left side using prelude intermediate shaft

Radiator options:
- FAL import racing fan for 92-00 Civic for $169.95 from Summit Racing 1-800-962-9094 with 1994-97 Del Sol VTEC Radiator or Integra Radiator
OR
- C&R Import Racing aluminum radiator with SPAL fan for DOHC motors - $439.95 (317) 293-4100

- 1992 Integra LS Upper Radiator Hose ? approx. $15
- 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose ? approx. $15

If you are running NO A/C then you can get alternator belt - Part No. 25-060370 from NAPA Auto parts which is $20 or any 36-37? belt with 6 teeth.

[civic31g]

OK, I am trying to cover ALL you need to do this swap and all the myths and shit that people have been saying about this swap.

First, Try to find a car that has not been in a front end crash. The new motor mounts are made for a straight frame, so if you have frame damage, the mounts will not line up right.

Motor Mounts: Now, your stock or B-series mounts will not work. You have two choices: 1) Hasport or 2) HCP. The difference in the mounts are little. Hasports cost the is higher than the HCP. The HASport motor mounts were designed for better axles angles, so you have less broken axles. Now, HCP designed there kit more towards the stock prelude mounting position. I mostly use HCP because of the price and seen no real benefits for the HASport besides (in the HCP) if you do not grind enough off the transmission mount, it will grind 5th and reverse. Now, I know you are saying "what about other mounts that I have seen like Place racing, totem, etc?". With place racing, I have seen nothing but problems with axles binding and just poor R&D. With totem, The link will show you all: http://www.jdmshit.com/Totem/ . Totem copied the HCP design and did a shitty job at it. With ALL mounts you will have to use a 92-96 H-series prelude rear transmission bracket.

Axles: You have many choices here. You can use a 90-93 accord intermediate shaft with 90-93 integra axles, or use the prelude intermediate shaft with a 90-93 integra passenger side axle and a hybrid axle with a 'lude inner CV joint and the 90-93 integra shaft and outer CV joint for driver's side axle. The only difference in those axles set-up is the intermediate shaft you use. I have seen them hold to nice horsepower, so you do not have to go the more money route. Another way to go is, Use the prelude intermediate shaft and order up a pair of DSS axles for the swap.

Wiring: I know that people think that this is the hardest part of the swap, but it is not (thanks to that damn shift linkage pin ). Now, the easiest harness to use is your stock harness. Most of the plugs will match up. If the is the same OBD, the colors of the wires will match up too. Now, there we go:
1. You will have to change the injector clips to the h22a style, that is very easy, just cut and splice. Now, your stock injectors are saturated. The H22a injectors are Peak and hold. you will have to wire in a resistor box. It is easy. there is a diagram:

http://www.hondata.com/techinjectorwiring.html

2. You will have to extend the Alternator wiring. Now, if it is the SAME OBD then you should have no problem. All the colors are the same.

3. You will have to length the wire going to the starter solenoid.

4. You will have to use the H22a reverse light plug. No biggy, just cut and splice.

5. Depending on what model and year you have, it will determine how much wiring you will have to do. there is a diagram to help you:


also you may have to rewire the 02 sensor (on VX and CX only) there are the pinouts:
WHT wire goes to D14 (O2 Sensor Input) - needs to be a shielded wire with ground (it has to be shielded wire, or it will not work right)
BLK wire goes to A6 which is Heater Control
GRN wire goes to D22 which is Sensor Ground
BLK wire goes to B1 or A25 which is Sensor voltage

6. As for the EGR, JDM motors you do not have to wire it up, BUT USDM you do. The JDM motors will get a code for it off and on, but just reset the computer, and it will go away.

7. Sensor ID. There is a pic that will make the job easier:


#1 is ECT (engine coolant temperature switch)

#2 is the coolant sending unit (this is what sends your cluster how hot your water is)

#3 is the knock sensor.

#4 is the oil sensor.

NOW, label all the sensors when you take them off. It will make it easier when you put the new motor in.


THINGS TO REPLACE.

When you have the motor/transmission out, you should replace: the clutch, timing belt and balance shaft belt, water pump, spark plugs. Those are just the basics, you can replace more.

COOLING SYSTEM

You will need a 92 integra LS upper Radiator hose and a 1994 Del Sol VTEC lower radiator hose. You can get them almost anywhere. You will have to get a slim fan OR mod. your stock fan to work. I think that the slim fan is the best. They are like $30 at pep boys. Now, as far as the Radiator questions, you can run your stock single core Radiator with no problems, but I would upgrade to a Del Sol VTEC dual core Radiator.

CUTTING AND HACK TO THE CHASSIS

you will need to cut a 2x3 hole for the shift cables. Here is a pic:



you will also have to cut the transmission mount. With the HASport, you will have to cut it off totally. With the HCP, you will only have to cut about 1" x 1" off it.

I think that is it, if you have any questions, just ask!

Special thanks to Brandon (poison) and Dave Newman (Newman)