B20z Type R Head

[imported_orange]

I was talking with some people tonight, and prior to talking with them i was sold on the idea of getting a b16a and boosting it eventually (I drive a 93' civic hatch 5 speed DX). However, these people were telling me that b16 is a waste of money if you really want a fast car, which i do. he said that i could buy the b20 from a local honda dealer and buy a type r head off of ebay. he then said that he would install im completely and dyno it for me (which he has in his garage) for 900 bucks, deal? and also, what do b20's and type r heads run? also note, he said it will run high 13's, bs? the guy seemed to have alot of knowledge in the field, he drives an evo 8 and a kia that puts 280 hp to the ground!

[imported_autoevoltion]

I would use b16 head instead of itr. better combustion chamber design for crvtec.
If this guy said he would assemble this for you and dyno tune for 900 $ thats good do it.
I can get a b20b to you for like $1100 shipped for the long block.

[imported_orange]

and the type r head would run me?

[Calesta]

Originally posted by autoevoltion@Aug 19 2003, 07:34 AM
I would use b16 head instead of itr. better combustion chamber design for crvtec.
If this guy said he would assemble this for you and dyno tune for 900 $ thats good do it.
I can get a b20b to you for like $1100 shipped for the long block.

Uh, ok- it's the exact same combustion chamber configuration as the B16- the ITR unit just has a mild polish job.

[imported_orange]

does it not matter which head i go with then? it sounds as if you are saying that they are nearly identical. . . minus the "polish job."

[Calesta]

The complete Type-R head will be better- but it won't be cheap. The main difference between the actual head piece is the port/polish, but you also get the best OEM cams (if you buy a 2000-2001 USDM ITR head) and a better valvetrain to handle higher revving. If you're just getting the head casting without any additional hardware, I would just get the B16 head and send it out for an aggressive port job later... but if you can get the complete head for a decent price (not sure what that would be), you benefit from the cams and valvetrain too. Of course, if you want more power later, your money is better spent on the normal B16 head now and saving for bigger cams and a stronger valvetrain later, rather than wasting money on the ITR setup now.

[imported_orange]

you use a b20 setup calesta, right? Which route did you?

[imported_Lacuna]

Originally posted by Calesta@Aug 19 2003, 04:11 PM
The complete Type-R head will be better- but it won't be cheap. The main difference between the actual head piece is the port/polish, but you also get the best OEM cams (if you buy a 2000-2001 USDM ITR head) and a better valvetrain to handle higher revving. If you're just getting the head casting without any additional hardware, I would just get the B16 head and send it out for an aggressive port job later... but if you can get the complete head for a decent price (not sure what that would be), you benefit from the cams and valvetrain too. Of course, if you want more power later, your money is better spent on the normal B16 head now and saving for bigger cams and a stronger valvetrain later, rather than wasting money on the ITR setup now.

In laymans terms, they are both a good purchase depending on where you want to spend your money.

[Calesta]

Yes, I had a B20 setup, but I used a B16 head. I was intending to mod the head way beyond what an ITR unit would give from the factory, but I never got around to it. Now I'm running a large GSR block with a B16 head, and it will get the same crazy treatment that the B20 was going to have. I was planning on a few thousand dollars of mods just on the head alone, so there was no reason for me to waste the cash on an ITR unit. The ITR head will make really nice power on the B20 block though, and will be very easy to tune compared to more aggressive port/polish jobs and nutzo cams.