| 06-08-2005, 07:37 PM | #1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,654
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so i finally finished up the rebiuld and the car is driving. the only problem i have now is still low idle when the car is cold. Other wise the car feels great.
How does everyone go about breaking in a fresh motor. i've heard so many differant things from so many people i'm not sure how long to give it before i slap the turbo back on. |
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| 06-08-2005, 08:23 PM | #2 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 32
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Like I told eric the best way to break in a motor is the following:
If you changed the rings dont use a high end synthetic like royal purple or mobil one. The rings will never seat properly. Use a blend for the first oil change. You can call up and of the machine shops and they will tell you the same. 1. first 50 miles keep it under 4k rpm (then change oil) 2. next 100 miles take it and beat it a little NA (then change oil) 3. slap the turbo on and change oil on your regular schedule why eric's break in time was longer was due to him putting in new cams... cams break in slower so the time doubles. if you just changed bearings and rings the above will work just fine. |
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| 06-08-2005, 08:43 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Caribbean
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just 150 miles of break in? I broke mine in for almost 1000 miles then slapped the turbo..
Motor runs strong and all the CR test we've done are perfectly even. oviously that depends of what kind of re build. In my case it was Basically new block internals.(pistons,rings,rods, main bearings, rod bearings)
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| 06-08-2005, 08:54 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
yeah im at 200 miles and still baby-ing it. Going to about 400 before i get on it any.. i did a few peddle mashes in thrid gear up to about 5k but let off.. just seeing what she wants to do.. bitch is mean. |
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| 06-08-2005, 11:26 PM | #5 | |||
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Quote:
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| 06-08-2005, 11:28 PM | #6 |
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bet ya cant wait to throw some boost on.
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| 06-09-2005, 05:42 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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best method of break in..this is what we do with our motors...and obviously i dont have a problem making horsepower...
finish the rebuild...start the motor, purge the cooling system, let it run up to temp. drain the oil...90% of the metal your motor will see will be in the first 5 min of running. refill the oil...make sure cooling system is full, go out and drive it. dont baby it...you baby it your rings break in thinking thats all they will see. you start applying power to them and they arent seated, thats when you start blowing fuel by your rings...all kinds of other stuff. we take our cars out...get um up to about 40mph in 4th gear, accelerate to 65mph at full throttle. let the motor coast back down to 40, dont take the car outta gear, dont put in the clutch...just let it cruis....do that about 9 or ten times...this not only puts compression on your rings, but it also puts vacuum on your rings, so they seal in both directions. after that the motor is broken in...go out and have fun. my break in was going to the track and running 11.47 at 21psi. my rings are seated perfectly fine. |
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| 06-09-2005, 11:39 AM | #8 |
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Well i have about 40 miles on it now and haven't taken it above 4 k in any gear. Still have problems with cold start. This morning it wouldn't hold idle at all, it would just stall out, it's reall wierd i'm hoping all that goes away with time.. Once the car is warm it feels great. The current plan is to take it for a nice drive (2-300 miles) this weekend when go up to the poconos. I guess i'll change my oil out before i head up there. Then once i get there (100 miles) then again when i get home. That should be good for cleaning any metal that was introduced into the system. For the first oil fill i used castrol syn-blend (eric this is what you used right?) The current plan is to get and OBD1 pr4 ecu and set Uber in it then i have a local Uberdata tuiner i found on "HMT" that said he will come up tune the car and show me what he's doing while he tunes it so i know the basics about the program.
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| 06-09-2005, 11:40 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
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| 06-09-2005, 04:26 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 32
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I guess I am old schools with the break in's. All the top fuel guys rip their motors down each race and rebuild it and break it in within seconds of starting it. But they also have to rebuild it every race
![]() the 50/100 method has never let me down, but I am sure there are other ways that people use, and are prolly really good builders. It is true that within a few min of running the rings start to seat due to the scratches on the cyl wall from the hone. bearings and cams take longer to break in. you can check compression before you break it in and then check it periodicly durring break in to see when the rings seat, also do a leakdown test. I guess there might not be a "best" breakin procedure because it seems all the ones mentioned have worked. |
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