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Discuss the B20 Vtec Info thread at the Hybrid Honda forums at the CivicLand Honda Civic Forums.
just curious but why would you use ITR cams but not the head? I know the ITR is expensive, but why not buy a complete head with cams?...

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08-02-2005, 09:08 PM   #21
imported_Lacuna

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just curious but why would you use ITR cams but not the head? I know the ITR is expensive, but why not buy a complete head with cams?
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08-02-2005, 09:12 PM   #22
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because when you break it down a bare b16 head is pretty much the same as a bare itr head, minus the porting. To buy a b16 head and port it and get all the parts for it will cost you less than a used itr head
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08-03-2005, 12:17 AM   #23
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I think you need to have a little more experience and learn a little more before you try and build a 13:1 compression street motor. Read up on tuning, it's all over the place...different EMS options, fueling options, etc.
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08-03-2005, 03:43 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vtec_Power+Aug 2 2005, 11:24 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Vtec_Power @ Aug 2 2005, 11:24 AM)</div>
Quote:
Well lets say its a B20B and has around 55k on it... how does one avoid detonation?? and i believe 13.0:1 is one of the extremes, i'm pretty sure that it wouldnt get that high, would a CR of 10-11.5:1 make some decent numbers with the pistons, rods, GSR head, ITR cams on a GSR tranny?[/b]
Avoiding detonation = tuning tuning tuning!

Try to get as close to 11.5:1 compression as you can. Either that or just something from 11.0 to 11.5. It's still not too hard for someone who's not Superman to tune it. You can easily break 210whp on a setup like you listed. Just make sure you spend LOTS of time on the dyno! Make sure you go to someone who knows what they're doing with ignition timing too.

Quote:
Originally posted by simplegreen@Aug 2 2005, 04:12 PM
because when you break it down a bare b16 head is pretty much the same as a bare itr head, minus the porting. To buy a b16 head and port it and get all the parts for it will cost you less than a used itr head
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<!--QuoteBegin-dubcac
@Aug 2 2005, 07:17 PM
I think you need to have a little more experience and learn a little more before you try and build a 13:1 compression street motor.* Read up on tuning, it's all over the place...different EMS options, fueling options, etc.
13:1 isn't THAT hard to tune.
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08-03-2005, 04:38 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by dubcac@Aug 2 2005, 07:17 PM
I think you need to have a little more experience and learn a little more before you try and build a 13:1 compression street motor.* Read up on tuning, it's all over the place...different EMS options, fueling options, etc.
ok well this is what i was planning...


B20B block, Stripped and hot tanked.

Wiseco Piston and rod combo that Calesta recomended...

Balanced and blueprinted OEM crank...(I know the cranks are good for up to 600hp..no need to get a new one.)

GSR head with ITR cams... not sure if the cam profiles are the same on JDM v. USDM... i'll have to look into that next.

All on OEM vlavetrain...possibly new springs and retainers (depends on the mileage of the head)

P28 chipped and re-programmed with Uberdata OR a V-AFC

prolly gonna mate that to a Exedy stageII with a Fidanza flywheel.

Have it all tuned at Abacus Racing down in VA beach.

THAT is just a rough sketch of what i want in the future.
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08-03-2005, 05:29 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vtec_Power@Aug 2 2005, 11:38 PM
GSR head with ITR cams... not sure if the cam profiles are the same on JDM v. USDM... i'll have to look into that next.

All on OEM vlavetrain...possibly new springs and retainers (depends on the mileage of the head)

P28 chipped and re-programmed with Uberdata OR a V-AFC
JDM is different from USDM for 96-99, but the profiles on the USDM 00-01 ITR are the same as the JDM ITR.

Go with the ITR valvetrain. You won't want to be revving up past 8000rpm with ITR cams on the stock GSR valvetrain. Sure, it'll handle it, but it's a good idea to switch. You might also look into getting ITR lost motion assemblies. You don't need them to run ITR cams, but it's a good idea to upgrade the whole valvetrain to ITR spec, especially if you're going to run over stock ITR redline.

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08-03-2005, 07:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by Calesta@Aug 2 2005, 07:43 PM

13:1 isn't THAT hard to tune.*
Well, the tree huggers out here only allow us to get 91 octane.
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08-03-2005, 08:21 AM   #28
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Aw c'mon. There are people out in Cali using 91 octane on 12.8:1 compression.
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08-03-2005, 05:27 PM   #29
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i wouldnt recommend being a 2 liter on 13:1 on a b20 block with pump(91, i live in cali) gas. I have messed around with b20;s. they, from experience, do not like boost(even 13-15lbs). and they also do not like high compression. Ive built a lot of different motors and from my experience, b20s tend to last less time than ls/vtecs built the same way. just the way it is.

As for not polishing the crank unless it has scarring on it, thats totally incorrect. We ALWAYS polish a crank before the motor goes together. Then again...we always align hone a motor before it goes back together, so we go a little over board sometimes. Polishing a crank gets rid of any tiny things that you might not see, or feel, and those are the things that will eat bearings up over time.

(quote)You might also look into getting ITR lost motion assemblies. You don't need them to run ITR cams, but it's a good idea to upgrade the whole valvetrain to ITR spec, especially if you're going to run over stock ITR redline.(quote)

This isa good idea depending on the year of the head. the newer gsr's and 99-00 si's all came with the same LMA's as the type r. The only way to upgrade your lma's would be to go with H22 lma's, Great upgrade and the most beautiful thing about it is, they are $100 cheaper than the b series.
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08-03-2005, 05:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vtec_Power+Aug 2 2005, 11:38 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Vtec_Power @ Aug 2 2005, 11:38 PM)</div>
Quote:
<!--QuoteBegin-dubcac
Quote:
@Aug 2 2005, 07:17 PM
I think you need to have a little more experience and learn a little more before you try and build a 13:1 compression street motor.* Read up on tuning, it's all over the place...different EMS options, fueling options, etc.
ok well this is what i was planning...


B20B block, Stripped and hot tanked.

Wiseco Piston and rod combo that Calesta recomended...

Balanced and blueprinted OEM crank...(I know the cranks are good for up to 600hp..no need to get a new one.)

GSR head with ITR cams... not sure if the cam profiles are the same on JDM v. USDM... i'll have to look into that next.

All on OEM vlavetrain...possibly new springs and retainers (depends on the mileage of the head)

P28 chipped and re-programmed with Uberdata OR a V-AFC

prolly gonna mate that to a Exedy stageII with a Fidanza flywheel.

Have it all tuned at Abacus Racing down in VA beach.

THAT is just a rough sketch of what i want in the future.[/b]


nooo do not hot tank an aluminum block. Chemical bead blasting is generally what they do on aluminum, but i just want to make sure you dont go there and tell them to hot tank it.

If your gunna spend the money on buy new oem valve train, it would probably be cheaper to go aftermarket. springs retainers($315) valves($275).

For cams, just a little intell. the 01 usdm itr cams are the same spec as a jdm ctr cam and thats the most aggressive oem profile there is.
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