What Setup?

[90sModifier]

What up! New to the forum. But not to the racing scene. This is my first honda. My last car was a 240sx and was 2 weeks from having a complete turbo setup for the KA then it was totaled. So now I have a 90 Civic HatchBack Si D16A6. Bone Stock I think. No A/C or P/S. It appears that it was modified at one point but don't know for sure. The guy I got it from got it from an Auto Auction.

My plans are to make it a fast as hell Daily Driver drag/street car.
I would like imput on which is best on these setups im looking at. For ex. Power:Weight ratio
Cost
Difficulty
Most Potential

1. The motor in it now with an SOHC VTEC upgrade and Turboed.

2. B20 CR/VTEC turboed

3. H22 turboed

4. K20 turboed $$$$unreasonable$$$$ right now.
(I put this one here for shits&gigles)

It wouldn't be the first honda I've worked on. My friend has a B20turbo 1986 Accord.

[simplegreen]

h22 turboed. gonna be a tight fit though

[Hybrid_Coupe]

yeah but that would be an awesome setup...h22 turbo...tyler hora's car is damn awesome.

[Smooth_Imports]

no matter what setup you do with, (you can get good numbers with any of them) Make sure you biuld and tune tune tune. Trust me this is my 3rd biuld in less then a year. And i finally got it though my dumb ass head that cutting corning to make cheap power isn't worth it.

[CivicSi04']

i say b20 in my opinion, easier and maybe cheaper, not sure. full build over the winter, bottom end, and head work, and then also a nice mid sized turbo, once the summer months come around. thatll give u some serious shit right there, dont forget, still need brakes, suspension, and maintnance work tho too.

[steronz]

turbo d-series is great for cheap speed, but once you start putting aftermarket internals into the d, it doesn't make much sense. a sleeved D block with forged internals will cost just as much as a sleeved B block with forged internals, but with less displacement and a crappier R/S ratio. stock motors aren't good for more than around 200 whp, so if you want to go past that, and are going to build a block, you might as wel build a B.

CR/VTEC turbo just doesn't make a whole lot of sense. a b20 is just a b18b bored out to 84mm. same stroke, etc. and with an 84mm bore, it just doesn't have a lot of cylinder wall left... not enough to run large amounts of boost on without aftermarket sleeves. B20 N/A is ok, but B20 is gonna need aftermarket sleeves, and if you're sleeving a block, you might as well start with a cheaper b18b.

HOWEVER, the b18b can run a substantial amount of boost on the stock sleeves, so an LS/VTEC turbo wouldn't require a resleeve, and you're only .2 liters down from a b20. no big whoop at 20 psi, right?

H22s fit in EFs, but not well. H22 turbos also fit, but even worse. modifications must be made to both cross members, there are alternator and intake manifold clearance issues, axles don't line up very well (that's a big thing)... it's just doesn't feel right. and i wouldn't want to have to work on one.

so really the best for big drag power in a EF is LS or LS/VTEC turbo. you can start out with a stock bottom end, build the car and TUNE IT very well. then when you're pushing the limits of the stock bottom end (probably a little bit past 300 whp), you can send of another LS bottom end to get bored to 84mm and sleeved with forged internals, throw that in and crank up the boost.