| 01-20-2004, 04:47 AM | #1 |
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I didnt even sand paper my stuff down. the secret i have learned is to blow dry it w/ a blow dryer (DUH, I know someone will ask this.) cuz how paint runs 90% of the time is cuz you dont let the last coat dry. the blow dryer speed it up.start the dryer on low, for about 30 secs, then to high for about a min or two. This helps BIG time.
dry. then put on a light coat of the good paint on all of the parts. let that air dry. ALL THE WAY *this may take a few min* just wait it will be worth it in th end then put on another light coat, if you see it start to run wash off all the paint. and start over. make sure they are light coats. NEVER put on a heavey coat. then blow dry it. and another and another and leep blow drying it. this make take a few coats to do. then if the items look coverd, they are not., put on another coat and let it AIR dry w/o the blow dryer.then put on 3 good coats of clear coat. (you can use kralon for this) you can blow dry the middle coast also,, but not the first one or the last one. after you are done reinstall the parts. and dont let sharp objects arond them, cuz they can still get scraps in them DuPont Custom Vinyl Paint ($15/can) i put this on another bord, but you should get the point. |
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| 01-20-2004, 05:11 PM | #2 |
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No the secret is patience. Super light coats and a good 15 to 30 minutes in between each. The paint should be sticky but not fully dry in between coats. It should take all day or two just to get the pieces painted. I would also suggest the same manufacturer as the paint for the clear coat. Mixing brand names could make the paint job turn out horrible because some brands actually losen the paint of another brand. Let the pieces dry at least half a day in between painting and clear coating.
I've painted my interior like this with no sanding or primer or anything else, and it looks pretty good after a year. Now on to the main point: DO NOT paint your interior no matter what. You may be in love with the idea and just KNOW you will never want to have the paint taken off in the future, but guess what? You will. I know I want my paint stripped right now. DOH!
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Most look forward to arriving at home. I look forward to the ride home. My '96 sedan: http://www.members.aol.com/skorchedzero/ |
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| 01-20-2004, 05:26 PM | #3 |
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Senior Member
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My x-g/f's new car is a cavalier. It's metallic silver and looks pretty damn good if you ask me.
She decided that she liked the paintjob so much that she wanted to carry it into the car. The center dash/console was professionally painted to match and DAYUMM does it look killer. If you are going to do this ish . . do it right . . don't skimp out. As Skorched said . . Do not paint your interior! ![]() If you are going to do it, you'd better be damn sure what color you are going to have it done in and think about it really hard before jumping. You don't want to regret it later. lates. Sam - |
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| 01-20-2004, 05:35 PM | #4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,654
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do paint anything on the inside of the car, Cover it in vynal. for one it's easier and faster then paint, 2 it's more durable (sp) and last you can't change it very fast with out destorying any parts.
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| 01-20-2004, 06:03 PM | #5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: upstate ny
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That's another excellant point!
Seriously, to do a pro looking interior paintjob here's what is really needed: ------------- You must remove anything that is being painted. All serfaces must be scuffed as flat as possible to enable all primers, paints, and clears to adhiere properly. After everything is sanded/scuffed (and I'm talking 400grit down to like 6-688grit) it must be cleaned with either chemicals such as "final clean", degreasing solutions, or if you skimp --> alcohol After a thurough cleaning, you should use a "tac-rag" to take off all tiny prticles left behind. Now the time is finaly here to start the painting process. * Every coat of everything should be 1st "dust coated" meaning a very very very light 1st coat that acts as a promoter for the paints to stick to. Once a dust coat is done and allowd to dry for a few minutes, you can start the other coats. The primer must be light coated a few times in I'd say 15 minute intervals untill everything is evenly coated/filled to a smooth like apearance. When that has dried (to a tacky coat) The paint can be shot using the same method. You can check for "tackiness" by shooting the paint on tape that is atatched to what you are painting. That way it's the same consistantsy as the rest of what you are painting and you can touch it without ruining anything. Shoot your paint dust coat on then procede with the rest of the coats untill even. Nice light, even, 1/2 overlapping coats are best to get a perfact look. Once the paint is dried like the primer step above, you are ready for your clear. * Depending on your skills, this is a make it or break it stage in painting. * Some people lay the tack down and then use heavier coats of clear to really bring out the paint. Others just lay it down as they did the primer/clear . . light and even. If you are good, you can lay it down thicker but you'll have to be good or it'll run and ruin everything. If you dust it too much, the clear will get a haisy look due to the paint particles not laying down as flat as they would from a heavier coat. If you practice this, you'll see what I mean! Been there done that and with enough practice, it'll become natural either way. One way will def. work better for ya. * Now that everything is done, it should be left alone for at least 24-72 hours in constant heat/light to allow each coat to dry to a final cure. BE PATIENT!!! ![]() After that, everything should be ready to be put back in and called done! * If there are pieces that have to be "masked" off by taping . . that's another story all togeather . . believe it or not, it takes a tiny bit of skill since there are a few ways/techniques of masking properly. Again . . Good luck with this one!!!! Sam - |
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| 01-20-2004, 11:16 PM | #6 |
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ehhhh. if you really want to and do it right paint it.... I learned my lesson though..... I did a good job.... but damn why did i use the color :P
haha.. its all been converted back to stock now. ![]()
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| 01-21-2004, 05:35 PM | #7 |
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best advice. dont do it.
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../newestsig.jpg My Webpage cardomain. 97 civic Ex, j-spec B16 powered. 97 240sx w/ RB25DET swap in progress. my cars refuse to keep their factory engines. function > form -Dane |
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| 01-22-2004, 12:34 AM | #8 |
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Do it if you want to. If it looks like shit it's your fault. I'm painting all of mine silver right now, but just using an aerosol clear coat cause I'll be stripping the car down soon anyways. If you want a decent job, you can use spray cans, just learn how to do it right. If you want a great job, you gotta have better equiptment or have it done. The whole key is clearcoat. Clear that comes in a can is shit, but does protect the paint. Professional clearcoat has a hardener, so besides protecting paint, it also gives the paint that hard glass look and feel.
But either way, I sand down the panels until they're perfectly smooth. I don't just paint over the vinyl, but that's cause I don't like the cracking effect that the manufacturers give it. |
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| 01-22-2004, 05:55 AM | #9 |
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me and hkspowers did my interior...came out clean.
http://geocities.com/civictypel/interior2.jpg copy and paste in browser if it doesnt work. i still have a few more pieces i want to paint though.
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| 01-22-2004, 10:58 AM | #10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: The 607, Upstate NY
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Quote:
IMO painting the interior is kinda cheesy. |
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