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Well, lets get this off to a good start. I'm not a Honda guy, well, till NOW. I've built Alcohol Burning Aluminum V8's all ...

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03-03-2005, 12:14 AM   #1
TwinT_6L_Rover_V8

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Well, lets get this off to a good start. I'm not a Honda guy, well, till NOW. I've built Alcohol Burning Aluminum V8's all my life and looking for something new! I need help finding out how much abuse these mills can endure before donating their internals to the TRACK GODS (BOOM!!!). (1.0) What are the types of Honda 4's? (2.0) Can the V-tec valve train be locked in full time (these will be track engines so I'm going to be building monster HP)? (3.0) How much HP can the bottom end handle? (4.0) What are the know weaknesses of the bottom end? Head gasket, I'd like to rid it to avoid blowout, anyone done this? (5.0) What does removing the gasket bump the Comp ratio up to? (6.0) Are there any kits to move the distributor to the other end of the head? (7.0) How much boost can stock engines run and how much can the built engines handle? (8.0) Any one know how much CFM of air these engines flow at Full Throttle? I need an idea of CFM to calculate the size of turbo?s I'll need for my twin turbo engine? Thanks.
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03-03-2005, 01:09 AM   #2
NstyGrnHatch

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Wow those are alot of questions, Id get resistance to answer these ones he know alot about honda motors and thier internals, if you had a suspension question I could answer it.
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03-03-2005, 01:50 AM   #3
dubcac

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1. Best honda 4, the new K-series IVTEC motors are awesome...from the RSX-S or RSX-R...or hybrid/frakenstein engines involving headswaps. The Bseries is the most widely used in racing.

2. Toda makes VTEC Killer cams which in essence disables vtec, it uses large cam lobes all the time.

3. I've seen stock bottom ends handle over 350 whp, and built bottom ends like in the NHRA classes in the 7-800's.

4. I'm not sure about removing the headgasket...I don't know what the race teams use. But people are well over 500 whp still using a headgasket.

5. Depends on the compression of the components/engine you are using.

6. Not that I know of. The opposite end houses the cam gears. The side the distributor is on in stock form is where it connects to the intake camshaft.

7. I've seen stock motors handle 18psi with the right tuning...most don't last much past 14. Built blocks can handle 30 psi and above.

8. No idea of CFM, never looked into it. I would rather go with a single turbo than twin on an I4 though.
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03-03-2005, 01:51 AM   #4
simplegreen

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Edit - thats what happens when you get up to take a shit before you finish typing....



well i can knock out a few of those questions or at least give my best shot.

1.0 well there's tons of honda motors, the majority of the heavyily modded (hp wise) are the B and K series. Both are DOHC's B series were in OBD0-2b 89-01, (your civic SI's, integras etc) The b16(SI motor) is a 1.6l , most integra motors (b18b/c/c5/a etc) were 1.8l Most of them are all the same except for internals higher compression etc.Then you hit the H series which is only really one that is modded for HP which is the H22 (prelude vtec motor) 2.2 l

K series are relitivly knew people are getting 260+ all motor out of a modded K series. (newer so more expensive and less quanities avail)

2.0 - Vtec (variable timing electronic lift control) runs off of oil pressure, it cant really be locked in place physically, but you can get a "VAFC" (vtec air fuel controler) which will let you control the upward and downward engage and disengage points

3.0 i think the normal consensious is 320-250 hp on a stock motor from honda's b series realm not too sure of the K's

5.0 You can get mugen HG's which are thicker give you a small boost in HP not very noticeable.

6.0 never heard of any kit to move the dist over. Dont think it's possible

7.0 We were just into this convo.. again up to the 320-350 mark with realitive reliablity. I personally think boost effects stability of the motor over "X" psi but i've been told i was wrong.

Hope that helps, anyone see's somethign bogus correct me please
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03-03-2005, 05:08 AM   #5
Doughboy

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Quote:
Edit - thats what happens when you get up to take a shit before you finish typing....[/b]
I had no choice but to quote and laugh off my ass on this one..
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03-03-2005, 06:45 AM   #6
imported_tegs

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Since brett and eric answered the first three very well I won't repost the info.

Quote:
Originally posted by TwinT_6L_Rover_V8+Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(TwinT_6L_Rover_V8 @ Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM)</div>
Quote:
(3.0) How much HP can the bottom end handle? [/b]
D series-200ish
B series-300ish
H series-???? I haven't researched this enough, I'm guessing maybe mid 300's
K series-Although I'm not certain--350-375ish
F series- as in s2k motor. I have seen s2000's running the stock motor pushing
close to 500whp for over a year. This was done with standalone mang. ofcourse.
I've also seen s200's blow at mid 300's.
There really isn't enough people doing these to see where most people reach the limit.

This all requires proper management though. I mean something that can tune not just fuel maps but timing maps as well. A afc or fmu is not going to cut it running stock motors this high.

Yes like dub said, I've seen stock motors running more that 350whp but I haven't seen daily driven cars last much more than a year at that whp or higher (depending on driving habits, time in boost, miles etc.)

Quote:
Originally posted by TwinT_6L_Rover_V8@Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM

(4.0) What are the know weaknesses of the bottom end? Head gasket, I'd like to rid it to avoid blowout, anyone done this?
Part one-Stock sleeves and ringlands are the common thing to go first on higher hp motors.
Part two-I have not heard of this being done, but I have seen headgaskets being used on motors putting down 700whp.

Quote:
Originally posted by TwinT_6L_Rover_V8@Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM

(5.0) What does removing the gasket bump the Comp ratio up to?
Refer to dubs post first on this first, then read:

Different sizes of HG will raise or lower compression. Lowering the compression and using more boost with be the same as rasing compression and using less boost. You just have to watch out for detonation more in higher compression apps. This all applies to FI ofcourse.

Quote:
Originally posted by TwinT_6L_Rover_V8@Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM

(6.0) Are there any kits to move the distributor to the other end of the head?
NO, why would you want to do this in the first place?

Quote:
Originally posted by TwinT_6L_Rover_V8@Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM

(7.0) How much boost can stock engines run and how much can the built engines handle?
Here we go again...

It's NOT how much boost a stock motor can run, it's how much WHP it can handle. A stock b series with a t3 .48 and .42 can run 15+ psi and not hit 300whp. Now take the same motor and run a sc63 .60 and .63 and run 12 psi and be over 300.

There is no way to say this amount of boost is ok to run on every b series. It just doesn't happen. If you give us turbo specs and then we could say x amount of boost will give you x amount of whp on x motor. So you could run x amount with that turbo and motor.
<!--QuoteBegin-TwinT_6L_Rover_V8
@Mar 2 2005, 06:14 PM


(8.0) Any one know how much CFM of air these engines flow at Full Throttle? I need an idea of CFM to calculate the size of turbo?s I'll need for my twin turbo engine? Thanks.
Twin turbo even on a 2.2 liter can be very laggy. I would suggest running a larger single turbo. Even people running TT supras upgrade to one larger turbo, and that's a 6cyl, I could imagine two turbo's on a 4cyl.

I was also reading a thread the other day where a guy had a TT b16 hatch. It was really slow and really laggy. He said it was the worst decision he made and is now switching to a single turbo.
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