5th Gen Civic Greddy Turbo Kit Installation On 4th

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After receiving numerous emails about adapting the Greddy turbo kit for the 5th generation Civics, I decided to unveil the "secrets" of the Greddy turbo kit. The Greddy kit for 92-95 Civics was originally designed for the ZC (1.6 DOHC non-vtec)powered CRX in the Japanese domestic market. However, the ZC does not exist in the US market,so GReddy adapted the kit to the most popular motor and car to upgrade in the US market.. the D16Z6 (SOHC VTEC).. found in the 92-up Civic EX and Si, and the Del Sol Si. The ZC at heart is a D-series motor.. so all Greddy had to do to adapt the kit to the D16Z6 was change the casting for the exhaust manifold slightly (by shifting the ports over approx. 1-3mm) and packaging charge pipes and downpipe/adapter to fit the 5G Civic platform. In this form, the kit will bolt onto any Civic chassis, including the Del Sol. The kit can even be modified to fit B-Series motors. This article will focus on converting the USDM kit to fit on the 2nd most popular D-series motors and chassis, the D16A6 and ZC on 4g Civics and 2g CRXs.

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Parts that you will need to complete a non-intercooled conversion:

92-95 Civic Greddy kit
The kit can be obtained for around $1400-1500 USD.

Custom charge pipes
You can make your own charge pipes by purchasing exhaust "U" or "J" mandrel bends... (available from many Domestic performance mail-order companies such as Summit Racing)simply cut to length and angle, and attach them together with silicone couplings. Silicone couplings can eb very expensive.. especially if you plan on having a lot of connections... 2"-2.5" couplings generally run around $25 dollars a foot. Try to minimize the number of connections by having as many sections of charge pipe welded together as possible. If silicone is still too expensive, you can go to your local Hardware/Home supply store and get rubber sewage drain connections (like the ones in the picture above.) Be forewarned that these do not stand up to heat very well and have to be tighted periodically since they tend to soften a bit after long drives. If you don't have the patience or the means to fabricate your own plumbing, performance shops and muffler shops will be able to custom make pipes for you, for a fee. Average price runs around $100-$250 depending on quality of bends, and type of piping used.

Check Valves (One way valves)

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Since the Greddy engine management unit (Black Box) included with the kit is not compatible with '91 and under D-series ECUs, check valves will have to be used to bleed boost away from the MAP sensor. This is necessary because the stock MAP sensor is a 1 BAR sensor, meaning it's calibrated to operate in ambient atmopsheric pressure. It is not calibrated for ranges about the ambient atmospheric pressure.. in other words it cannot give air speed/density reading under boosted conditions. The check valves are "T"d inline between the MAP sensor (mounted on the firewall for 4G civics and CRXs) and the throttle body. They are configured so that they let air pass out from the vacuum line in one direction. The result is that under boost, the boost signal going to the MAP sensor will be bled away by the check valves, "tricking" the MAP sensor into thinking that there is only a "0" or ambient atmospheric pressure (absolute) reading. Under vacuum conditions (idling, light load driving) the check valves prevent outside air from being sucked into the vacuum line (which would affect the vacuum reading to the MAP sensor). In the event that the MAP sensor detects boost, it will send a faulty reading to the ECU, which will result in a engine code and poor performance. Check valves can be aquired at any pet store that sells aquarium accessories, and most auto parts shops for a few dollars.

Besides the components above, the rest of the parts needed to finish the install are included in with the kit.

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Installation and modifications:

Modifying the turbo manifold

The first mod. you'll have to do is to shave the ends of the turbo manifold to match the stock ZC manifold. (NOTE: This only applies to ZC motors.) Notice the flat spots on the stock ZC header where the arrows are pointing at? Those are the two areas that need to be shaved on the turbo manifold. The turbo manifold does not have those flat spots... it's ends are rounded, which will not clear the edge of the block on the ZC. This mod. can be done easily with a sharp file, hack saw, or die grinder/dremel. You don't have to flatten out the entire bottom edge.. just notch the manifold enough to clear the edge of the block. A total of about 1mm of material will be removed, and will not sacrifice reliability. Test fit the manifold on the head before continuing.

Since the ports on the ZC are shifted over about 1mm-3mm when compared to the D16Z6 and D16A1, once might think that you would have to port match the exhaust ports on the turbo manifold. While this is a welcome modification, it's not necessary if you plan on staying below 7 psi (quoting Greddy technicians.) I did extensive portmatching and internal porting to the turbo manifold and have not noticed any appreciable performance difference even at 10-12 psi. Again, this mod. only applies to ZCs.

Installing check valves

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The check valves need to be installed inline between the MAP sensor and the throttle body, with the airflow blowing outwards into the atmosphere. Install 3 vacuum "T"s in the vacuum line that leads from the MAP sensor (located on the firewall) to the top vacuum port on the throttle body (see pic on previous page). The port is next to the orange braided hose that is connected to the "smog" canister. If installed properly, you should now have 3 separate "ports" on the vacuum line. Attach check valves to each of these ports. make sure that the inlet of the valve is connected to the vacuum "T", while the outlet is venting into the air. In some cases 3 check valves are not enough (depending on the size of the check valve).. if you are still receiving a MAP ECU code with 3 check valves, you can add more simply by adding more "T"s.

Installing the downpipe

Depending on how close your motor is to the radiator, you may or may not have to punch out or cutout a small indentation of about 1"-2" inches in the front crossmember in order to clear the downpipe. Lowering or removing the front crossmember will ease installation.. since space is limited. Test fit the front cross member before bolting it back on.. remember to leave enough clearance for the engine to move under high torque conditions. The downpipe should bolt directly to the cat.

Oil sending line

On ZCs the stock oil cooler will impede installation of the oil sending line. Removal of the oil cooler is almost always necessary. Remember to use teflon tape on all threaded oil lines!

Install the rest of the kit per Greddy instructions. Everything should bolt right up. Charge pipe routing is up to you. Most people decide to go under the front engine mount, back up, across the top of the tranny (between the distributor and battery)and curving over to the throttle body. Remember to retard your initial ignition timing 1-3 degrees if you do not have a boost retard device (MSD BTM or equivalent). Higher boost levels (7 and above) require more ignition retard and an upgrade in-tank fuel pump or inline booster pump. An intercooler is recommended but not absolutely necessary


Taken from www.motionless.net
no author was given

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Sorry I couldn't post up the pics but it's 5am and I wanted to get this up here! Eric if you could send me the info on hosting of pics it would be much appreciated!