Strut/shock/coilover Install

[oompahlumpa]

http://belton.ws/6g.civic.tech/dampers/index.php

[simplegreen]

"harvest it"

[oompahlumpa]

whatta ya mean?

[simplegreen]

http://www.civicland.com/forums/inde...showtopic=6861

where ya been?

[oompahlumpa]

ok ill do that later, unless someone else wants to take the task, I got to goto work.

[jfred2112]

6g Civic Damper Install - As seen on speed society Speeded Society

Items to gather before you start:
- jack and jack stands
- blocks for front wheels
- spring compressors (highly recommended for safety)
- lug wrench
- torque wrench
- (2) ratchets
- (1) regular and (1) deep 14mm socket
- (2) regular and (2) deep 17mm sockets
- (1) regular 19mm socket (for most spring compressors)
- breaker bar and liquid wrench (optional)
- 5mm hex wrench
- (2) replacement locking nuts for front fork bolts
- any other tools required by your new dampers


Before you start, you need to raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. You should never work under a car supported by only a jack. You should also disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Front Dampers
Before you get started you will need to loosen the lug nuts on both front wheels, then raise car and support it with jack stands, and finally...remove the front wheels.

front1


Now you need to remove the 14mm pinch bolt from the top of the damper fork.

front2

Then remove the 17mm nut and bolt holding the fork to the lower arm, and remove the fork. (you might need a breaker bar here)

front3

Finally, remove the two 14mm top flange nuts, and then remove the damper assembly from the car.

front4

You can see that I had Tein springs and stock shocks...they will both be replaced by the shiny new JIC units.

front5

If your dampers did not come with new upper mounts, you will need to disassemble the stock dampers and use the stock upper mounts. To get the damper apart, you first need to use your spring compressors and relieve the pressure on the dampers. Next, remove the 14mm nut on top of the damper while using a 5mm allen wrench to keep shaft from turning.

front6

Now remove the upper mount, all the pieces, and the spring. You will need to salvage any parts you need for your installation. I needed the upper mount, one of the rubber pieces, and the spring mounting rubber. (Which is still inside the upper mount) Also carefully remove the spring compressors and set the spring aside.

front7

Next you will assemble your new damper via the instructions for your specific application, and use the salvaged pieces if needed.

front8

Repeat all steps for other side.
Now simply reverse the steps for installation. You might need to use the jack to raise up the control arm a bit to get the new damper in.

front9

After you have the bolts back in, you will need to torque the pinch bolt to 32 lb-ft and the lower nut to 47 lb-ft (Helms recommends to replace this nut, they cost me a buck each at the dealer)

front10

Now torque the upper flange nuts to 36 lb-ft

front11

Reinstall the wheels and hand tighten lug nuts.

front12

Rear Dampers
Before you get started you will need to loosen the lug nuts on both rear wheels, then raise car and support it with jack stands, and finally...remove the rear wheels.
Now you need to remove the 14mm flange nuts on top of the dampers in the trunk/hatch.

rear1


Next you will remove the lower 14mm flange bolt from the damper, and the 14mm flange bolt holding the LCA to the trailing arm.

Rear2

Now lower the LCA and remove the damper assembly.

Rear3

If your dampers did not come with new upper mounts, you will need to disassemble the stock dampers and use the stock upper mounts. Make sure you use your spring compressors to remove the load on the shock, then remove the 14mm nut on top of the damper while using an allen wrench to keep shaft from turning.

Rear4

(Same as on front) Now remove the upper mount, all the pieces, and the spring. You will need to salvage any parts you need for your installation. I needed the upper mount, one of the rubber pieces, and the spring mounting rubber. (which is still inside the upper mount) Also carefully remove the spring compressors and set the spring aside.

Repeat all steps for the other side.

Now simply reverse the steps for installation.

Rear5
First get the damper in place

Once all the bolts are in finger tight, you will need to torque both lower flange bolts to 40 lb-ft

rear6

Then torque the upper flange nuts to 36 lb-ft

rear7

The rear is now installed.

Rear8

Finally, reinstall the wheels and hand tighten the lug nuts, then lower the car off of the stands. If your new dampers are height adjustable then you may need to raise it up and down a few times to get it the right height and even on both sides. When you are done, tighten all your lugs to 80 lb-ft

Now you need a 4 wheel alignment and you will be set.

copied from www.georgebelton.com
not sure of original author

[simplegreen]

harves the images someone

[oompahlumpa]

got the pics, all zipped up, so I email them to murat?

[jfred2112]

i sent the pics to murat last night when i did pulled the diy

[oompahlumpa]

alright good job man.