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| 11-25-2005, 12:46 PM | #1 |
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The Complete Guide To Installing Energy Suspension Motor Mounts
This is a how-to for installing energy suspension motor mounts. Ok, this install is not hard by any means it just takes time and some basic knowledge. I did this on a base model 5 spd rsx which is identical to the ep. There are alot of different methods for this install but I choose to drop the subframe by removing the two bolts either in the front or the rear depending on the mount. In the ESMM kit you get 4 polyurethane inserts and a sticker. You are not replacing motor mounts, you are only inserting the ESMM on top of the stock mounts. Also, you are only using the polyurethane mounts for the front engine mount and the rear engine mount. 2 per mount. It will be clearer later on. You can't start a job without the right tools (ex. no crescent wrenches). Here is a pic of the tools needed. esmm1.jpg From left to right: 1/2 inch drive torque wrench, 17mm combo wrench, 1/2 inch breaker bar, 1/2 inch ratchet, 3/8 inch ratchet, ESMM, 1/2 inch extension, 1/2 - 3/8 inch adapter, 14mm socket, 12mm socket, 12mm deep socket, 3/8 inch extension, 17mm socket, thread locker/lock tite RED, mallet. esmm2.jpg This is very important. You need a jack with a good range of height. The car needs to be high enough that you can work comfortably underneath it. Also the jack stands should be the appropriate rating and should always be used while working under the car. A jack is only for lifting a car not holding it. Don't risk your life, if you dont have jackstands go by some. Always use chocks or blocks of wood to place behind the rear tires for an extra safety precaution. Also set the handbrake. Ok, start by parking the car setting the handbrake, and placing chocks or wood behind the tires. Jack the car up to a comfortable height (I maxed out my jack) and secure it with jackstands. The lifting point for the dc5 and the ep3 is right in the center of the subframe. There is a large black plastic arrow in the spash shield pointing towards it. Here is a picture. esmm3.jpg Make sure the car is secure before you get underneath it. Before starting the install you need to get familiar with the underside of the car. Locate the motor mounts, the subframe, the downpipe from the header and the sway bar. Here are some pictures. This is the front motor mount. Almost in the center of the front part of the car. It is very close to where you jacked the car up. Get underneath the car and look straight up right by the lift point. esmm4.jpg esmm5.jpg Here is the rear motor mount which is located right where the header meets up with the cat downpipe. You cannont see it from looking straight up. Get at an angle right by the cat and you will see it. esmm6.jpg esmm7.jpg Ok, you should see both mounts now you need to locate the subframe bolts. There are 6 but you will only loosen and use 4 to aid you in the install. Four of the bolts are located in the front of the car and two are located in the rear part of the subframe. These bolts should be torqed to 76 foot pounds. Rear right side. 17mm very long bolt. esmm8.jpg Rear left 17mm very long bolt. These are just some pix to let you know what you are loosening for future reference later on. esmm9.jpg The downpipe off the header and the front sway bar should be obvious. Ok time to start the install. Start by removing the splash shield. This will make it easier to reach the front mount. This is what it looks like without the splash shield. Excuse my custom cold air intake and the wires and water lines running underneath the car. esmm10.jpg esmm11.jpg esmm12.jpg Ok the splash shield is off and you've located the front motor mount. Time to drop the subframe low enough to get the inserts in. Start by loosening the rear subframe bolts out about 3/4 the way out with a 1/2 inch breaker bar 1/2 extension and 17mm socket. esmm13.jpg Ok after the rear bolts are loose move back towards the front of the car and completely loosen and remove the bolt that goes right throught the rubber mount. Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar or 1/2 inch ratchet with a 17mm socket depending on how tight the bolt is and how strong you are. esmm14.jpg This is what the bolt and nut look like when it is completely removed from the mount. esmm15.jpg Here is the mount without the bolt and nut. esmm16.jpg Now, we are ready to drop the subframe down and pop the mounts in. Ok to drop the subframe down completely remove the front two subframe bolts. These are the ones that need to be torqued to 76 foot pounds by the way. esmm17.jpg Be careful the subframe will drop a good amount and it scared my friend and I. Ok the motor mount should be in the same place on the engine but the subframe will be out of your way. Now you can pop in the ESMM inserts. Make sure to lube them up real good with wd40 and pop them in. O, and if the subframe isnt low enough then the rear subframe bolts arent out far enough. esmm18.jpg esmm19.jpg esmm20.jpg esmm21.jpg esmm22.jpg esmm23.jpg Ok that wasnt too hard right. Now you need to get the subframe over the new inserts. In order to do this you need to use your hands or the jack to push the subframe up. Also you can use a screwdriver to pry and move the subframe around. esmm24.jpg When the mount is aligned with the subframe holes insert the bolt and nut that was previously on there. VERY IMPORTANT. Make sure you use thread locker or lock tite on the threads and the nut. Put the bolt through and tighten the nut down to 47 foot pounds. Use the 17mm combo wrench to hold one side while you tighten the other. esmm25.jpg esmm26.jpg Ok the front mount is done. Lets move onto the rear k. Ok put the front subframe bolts about 1/4 the way in. The rear mount seems to be a little more involved. What you need to do first is completely unbolt the sway bar bushings. All four of them. They are 14mm bolts and you can use your 3/8 inch ratchet, extension, and 14mm socket to get them off. esmm27.jpg Ok you can just let the sway bar hang for now. Next get to that header/cat downpipe. Completely remove the spring bolts on the downpipe to allow some much needed movement. They are 12mm so a deep socket or a regular one can be used with a prettyl long extension and 3/8 inch drive ratchet. CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION the first O2 sensor, the mid-wideband sensor on our car has hardly any slack. Make sure you pull it off of the little clip that is holding it to get a little more slack. Dont mess this up. esmm28.jpg esmm29.jpg esmm30.jpg esmm31.jpg Ok with all this stuff out of the way you can start at the rear mount. Find the rear mount again and get your 17mm socket on that bolt sticking out on the right side. Take it completely out. It will be very close to the downpipe but it is very possible to do. esmm32.jpg esmm33.jpg Ok so you've got that bolt out good job. Now you need to drop the subframe once more just like you did before. This time you need to remove the rear subframe bolts completely and it should come down enought to clear the mount. If it does not pull on it or loosen the front mount a little more. Be careful people. With the mount exposed wd40 up the inserts and insert them into the stock rubber mounts. esmm34.jpg esmm35.jpg esmm36.jpg You are almost done. Now lets get that subframe up. Again you can use a screwdriver to pry it back and forth to align the mount with the subframe holes. Use the jack to lift it up and you'll be fine. esmm37.jpg After it is aligned slide in the bolt with the LOCKTITE on it. Tighten this bolt to about 47 foot pounds. esmm38.jpg esmm39.jpg Ok you are done with installing the inserts. Reatach the sway bar bushings and also the exhaust downpipe. Now you need to tighten all the subframe bolts that you loosened to 76 foot pounds. Make sure you tighten them at least three time to 76 foot pounds. Raise the car up to clear the jack stands, pull them out, and lower that beast to the floor. Start the car, enjoy the vibration and go tear up them tires. REMEMBER TO CHECK ALL BOLTS IN ABOUT A COUPLE DAYS TO ENSURE THAT THEY ARE TIGHT. THIS GUIDE WAS MADE BY ME, CARBON FIBER DESIRE. I am not a professional and neither are my friends but anybody can do this. This is hopefully the thread to end all the "how do we install esmm inserts". This DIY was written by C4rb0n F1b3r D3s1r3 it was taken from ephatch.com i used this install this week on my ep3 this DIY was absolutly awsome, so i had to grab it pictures are on the way .
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shut the hell up it don't look like a mouse or a mini-van |
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| 11-25-2005, 01:19 PM | #2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,381
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werd! real good one i'll need this one soon. .. get the pictures up
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| 11-25-2005, 08:53 PM | #3 | |
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(simplegreen @ Nov 25 2005, 09:19 AM) [snapback]96787[/snapback]</div>
Quote:
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shut the hell up it don't look like a mouse or a mini-van |
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| 12-12-2005, 02:06 AM | #4 |
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ehh... was i supposed to get the pics for this one??
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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...umpa/squad.gif |||EJSquad||| Member# 0001 1992 Grenada BLack Civic LX Sedan...lets see how long this one will last. =) 1994 Frost White Civic DX Coupe...swapped and totalled =( 1997 Milano Red Del Sol S..Blown Motor =( 1992 Torino Red Pearl Civic EX sedan...3 blown Trannies =( 2000 Vouge Silver Metallic Civic DX/VP sedan...Still rollin..my mom is the driver of it now |
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| 12-13-2005, 04:32 AM | #5 |
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i sent you the pics. i will send them again
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shut the hell up it don't look like a mouse or a mini-van |
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| 12-13-2005, 11:02 AM | #6 |
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ok, i sent it to your gmail account again. i also sent it to your hotmail account. let me know if you get em
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shut the hell up it don't look like a mouse or a mini-van |
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| 06-19-2007, 07:40 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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i cant see the pictures =/
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| 06-19-2007, 10:02 PM | #8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 605
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Maybe that's because it's a fucking two year old thread...
no0b
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98 civic ex sedan... Boost in progress... http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12.../Siege9111.jpg |
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